Probably the most famous of Yorkshire crags, Almscliff is a superb bouldering venue. Like the routes, the bouldering tends to be steep and powerful, and classic roof problems abound - Demon Roof, The Keel, Matt's Roof and Stu's Roof are all fantastic with an average angle approaching the horizontal. There are also plenty of easier classic problems. The crag is frequently very busy (by Yorkshire standards), although the bouldering is sufficiently spread out that this shouldn't be a problem.
A short Almscliff film by Nigel Poustie.
Topo
End Boulder
The first boulder is home to an old classic, and a desperate slopey traverse. Many variations are possible on Morrell's Wall.
6a
(V3)
1
0
2
The short sit-start arete on the left wall of the bay.
7a
(V6)
1
14
6
A low level traverse from the left-hand arete, across the corner to finish up Morrell's Wall.
6a
(V3)
0
0
Climb the vague arete on its overhanging side.
End Wall
4
(V0)
0
0
The right-slanting crack.
7a
(V6)
0
0
From a sit-start, mantel onto the centre of the sloping ledge.
2
(V0-)
0
0
Climb over the bulge starting at two good slanting edges.
4
(V0)
0
0
The very short slanting crack in the slab just to the right.
6b
(V4)
2
1
1
Climb the short crack from a sit-start.
4
(V0)
0
0
The short crack on the other side of the boulder, next to the wall.
5
(V1)
1
0
8
From a sloping hold on the lip, take the easiest line to the top. V3 from sitting.
5+
(V2)
2
1
6
Climb the centre of the face using the obvious big flake on the slab.
6c+
(V5)
5
3
The right arete via a long reach to a shallow pocket.
3
(V0-)
0
0
Back on the other side of the wall, amble across the slabby wall in either direction.
3
(V0-)
0
1
The centre of the slabby wall.
2
(V0-)
0
1
The right arete of the wall, climbed on its left side.
Eliminates and Variations
Morrell's Wall Variation
5+
(V2)
0
0
Climb the wall past a small ramp.
6c
(V5)
1
3
3
A nice eliminate, climbing the wall starting on the layaway of the next problem, using the gaston on the previous problem to reach a sloping hold on the slab.
5+
(V2)
1
0
4
An eliminate right of the big flake.
Traverses and Links
Slopey Traverse
7b+
(V8/9)
2
11
5
An excellent right-to-left traverse along the obvious slopers, starting from sitting just right of the crack and finishing up Morrell's Wall.
Unnamed Boulder
The next boulder up has two overhanging faces.
7a+
(V7)
2
1
3
Rock up leftwards onto the slab instead of finishing up the nose.
5
(V1)
0
0
The centre of the overhanging face. Many variations are possible.
6a+
(V3)
0
0
From the flake in the centre of the roof move right to a bizarre rockover round the lip. Superb.
6c+
(V5)
0
2
On the other side of the block, somehow climb into the undercut scoop.
Eliminates and Variations
Lasting Satisfaction
7c+
(V10)
7
2
A good eliminate on the overhanging face right of the previous problem. Start from sitting at the flake in the centre of the face, move right to the arete and finish over the bulge. Use a variety of slopers and avoid all the deep pockets.
Traverses and Links
Grape Strain
7b+
(V8/9)
0
2
From the block at the front of the boulder, traverse left along the lip, round the nose of Lasting Satisfaction to finish above the overhanging face.
West Cave - Left
The long wall overlooking the path above Morrell's Wall is split into two by a wide chimney. The left-hand end is quite high, and polished in places.
Barley Mow
7a
(V6)
1
12
6
The highball hanging crack.
Topo
West Cave - Right
The right-hand wall is lower, and has some good problems and plenty of eliminates.
The Postman
5
(V1)
0
2
The left arete past the "letterbox" slot onto the ledge. Escape.
?
(V?)
0
0
The short slippery crack to the ledge.
Hanging Rib
6a+
(V3)
3
3
8
The blunt rib is excellent, high, and quite tricky. Escape right from the break after the crux.
Pork Chop Slab
5+
(V2)
3
0
15
Nice moves up the centre of the slab.
Traverses and Links
Three Swings Traverse
5+
(V2)
0
1
From the centre of Pork Chop Slab traverse all the way left to the gully along the obvious break. Pumpy.
Flying Arete
The big boulder on the other side of the path has two aretes that meet at the apex of the block.
Flying Arete
6b
(V4)
5
10
21
The left arete is excellent.
Right Wing
6a
(V3)
0
3
The right arete, starting from the boulder, is easier. Try it footless!
6a
(V3)
2
2
5
On the other side of the boulder, climb the obvious polished slab without any large holds.
The Virgin
This enormous boulder has plenty of hard, highball problems on the two overhanging walls, and a few easier problems on the slabby back wall.
Gaskins' Problem
8a
(V11)
0
0
Climb straight up to the break from the block.
Cherry Falls
8a+
(V12)
1
1
From the break, reach a small sharp crimp with the right hand and pull up to the break.
7b
(V8)
1
5
5
An eliminate on the front face. From the break, reach a small crimp in the wall with the left hand, then use the slanting crack to reach the break. Jump off.
7b
(V8)
4
10
6
Gain the diagonal crack from below and left, and finish at the break.
7b+
(V8/9)
0
0
Another eliminate. Start under the Gypsy arete, then follow the lower side of the slanting crack to the break (with no other handholds).
5+
(V2)
1
7
3
The centre of the slabby back face of the boulder.
5+
(V2)
1
0
The right side left arete of the north face (left of the Sewer Rat cave). A fine problem.
Stretch Armstrong
7b+
(V8/9)
2
7
5
The left side of the Sewer Rat roof, with a huge reach from the back of the roof to the lip.
Canine
8a
(V11)
5
4
2
The central line on the roof. Start from the flake at the back, into the Sewer Rat crimp with right hand, a high undercut with left hand, quick feet adjusting and pop into slopey pocket with right, heel up and again into massive pocket with right, match and finish up arete.
Sewer Rat Connection
7b+
(V8/9)
0
1
The right side of the roof. Start right of the roof, use a painful crimp in the roof to reach the pockets round the lip.
Traverses and Links
Big Roof
The big roof on the boulder above the Virgin has a disappointing lack of holds.
5+
(V2)
1
0
5
The left side of the roof on good holds, from a low start.
6a+
(V3)
0
0
The centre of the roof above a pointy boulder, past an obvious finger pocket.
6a
(V3)
0
1
Start from standing at jugs at the right side of the roof and move left up the hanging arete.
5
(V1)
0
0
Start from the jugs at the right end of the roof and go straight up the wall via the breaks above.
Eliminates and Variations
Underhand Super Extension
7c+
(V10)
2
5
2
The ultimate link on this roof! Follow Underhand Extension to the point where it moves up, then continue leftwards along the obvious breaks to finish up the easy problem on the left side of the wall.
Unnamed Boulder
A small boulder opposite Sloper Patrol has a few good lower grade problems.
5+
(V2)
3
1
4
The left side of the arete.
5
(V1)
2
2
5
The right side of the arete has good climbing.
Ed's Dyno
A small boulder next to the Keel boulder with a few problems on the vertical front face.
6c
(V5)
1
7
8
Traverses the lower break of the boulder from right to left. Slippery!
6c+
(V5)
0
1
Traverse the break from right to left.
Eliminates and Variations
Topo
The Matterhorn
A big pinnacle at the foot of Low Man.
7a+
(V7)
0
2
The right-slanting crack leading up to the start of Matterhorn Arete, climbed from a sit start. Very tricky.
7b+
(V8/9)
1
7
3
An excellent, powerful sit start to the arete. Start with a sloper on the lip and an undercut in the roof.
7b+
(V8/9)
0
0
The centre of the green slab in the gully, from a sit-start.
Topo
Wall Boulder
Below the Matterhorn boulder by the wall is a small boulder a good slappy problem.
7b
(V8)
0
0
A nasty sit-start, one-move wonder, lacking in footholds.
Unnamed Boulder
This is a small pinnacle just below the Egg.
5+
(V2)
2
3
3
The centre of the long slab.
MK Wall
The right-hand end of Low Man above the Egg forms a steep slabby wall.
Making Shapes
7c+
(V10)
1
3
3
Just right of Pistol Whip.
5
(V1)
0
1
Short featured wall right again.
Steve's Wall
Between the Egg and South Cave is a small wall with a couple of good, tricky sit-start problems.
6c+
(V5)
0
0
Sit start as for Steve's Wall, then use the left arete to gain the top.
South Cave
This neglected area is well worth a visit for the two good aretes.
7a
(V6)
1
0
2
Dyno between breaks left of the arete.
6a+
(V3)
3
3
10
The arete is good, with a long reach for the break.
Teaspoon Cave
Further down the hill is a small cave, the walls of which have many variations.
Teaspoon Variation
6a+
(V3)
2
3
3
The crack at the right side of the roof is strenuous.
Parson's Chimney
Around Parson's Chimney there are a couple of neglected problems.
The Dark Side of Chi
7b
(V8)
3
3
1
Left of the chimney is this excellent rounded prow, which unfortunately has a poor landing.
6c+
(V5)
2
2
The centre of the green wall right of Parson's Chimney
Jess' Roof
Above the Syrett's Roof area is a large cave half way up the crag. There is one fine roof problem here.
Jess' Roof
7c
(V9)
6
2
9
Climb the roof from the back to a hard move at the lip. Superb.
Eliminates and Variations
7c+
(V10)
3
4
0
A left-hand variation to Jess' Roof. Start at a flake (from sitting on the block) and join the end moves of Jess' Roof, without using the side wall
Syrett's Roof
There are several good problems here, the best being the scary Syrett's Roof.
Brown's Roof
7a+
(V7)
3
0
0
The extremely highball roof left of Syrett's Roof.
South West Face
A long, high wall with lots of routes and a few boulder problems. The best bouldering here is on the horizontal Demon Wall Roof and the wall to the right; there's also a good long, easy traverse, and a small bulgy boulder at the left-hand end.
Topo
Demon Wall Roof
The horizontal roof left of the Crucifix has some classic problems and numerous eliminates.
Eliminates and Variations
Demon Wall Roof Left-Hand
7c
(V9)
1
3
4
Avoid the big horizontal break above the roof - finish up left instead.
7b+
(V8/9)
2
5
Demon Wall Roof without the big break above the roof - from the good crimp go to the big ear of rock above the roof.
Traverses and Links
Exorcist
8a
(V11)
2
5
5
Follow Dolphin Belly Slap to the lip, then traverse left to finish up Stu's Roof or Demon Wall Roof Left-Hand (or finish up Demon Wall Roof the easy way at 7c).
6c+
(V5)
0
0
Start up the right arete, then traverse the thin break leftwards to the crack.
Black Wall
This wall at right end of the upper tier has plenty of technical problems, many of which are extremely polished.
6b+
(V4)
0
1
From the wall, traverse right across the slopey break to the arete.
Jumping Bean
7a
(V6)
2
0
Reach the jug high in the wall right of Dreamland by a running jump.
Eliminates and Variations
6b
(V4)
2
2
3
The arete of the wall, avoiding the obvious pocket (V2 with the pocket).
