The Bridestones is one of the major Yorkshire bouldering crags. Numerous small edges and boulders spread out on the hillside above Todmorden provide excellent bouldering, including some classic highballs, with generally good landings. The rock is rough, and the climbing tends to feature unusual moves which can be tricky to work out. Many problems may seem to be undergraded on first acquaintance, but once you know how, they're easy!
The crag is very exposed to the weather. If there is a strong westerly wind it's best avoided - the lakeside boulders at Widdop, 15 minutes drive away, will almost certainly be sheltered. The crag can be shrouded in mist when the valley is clear. On a sunny summer's day the rock will be baking and the slopers un-hangable.
Topo
Spyhole Pinnacle
The first area isn't the best. There are numerous problems facing the farmhouse, but they have bad landings and aren't climbed very often. Further round the landings are better and there are some good problems.
Bottleneck
7a+
(V7)
2
0
0
The wall just right of The Mantleshelf. A hard move off a crimp leads to a committing move to pocket. Highball.
Cleopatra
7a
(V6)
3
9
12
The wall beside the arete is a classic.
Face Ache
6a+
(V3)
2
1
The pillar in the bay is excellent but a bit scary.
Short Corner
4
(V0)
0
1
The corner is excellent.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The shallow runnel.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The blunt arete.
7b
(V8)
1
1
1
The hard wall to the right of Out of Sight.
Topo
The Indian's Head
This big pinnacle is immediately recognisable, and has plenty of high quality, scary problems. Escape from the top is by jumping the gap to the mainland, and is quite exciting in itself.
Crucifixion
7c
(V9)
1
1
1
Traverse the sloping break left to the arete. Another well-named problem.
Tete de Chien
7a+
(V7)
1
0
Climb the big overhang using the obvious pocket.
Warpath
5+
(V2)
0
0
The obvious ledge leading right above the overhang. Feels very high and scary.
Cochise
6b
(V4)
0
0
The arete. Start up Warpath, then move up and round the arete. Scary.
Long Knife Left
6a+
(V3)
0
0
The left arete of the wall opposite the pinnacle, climbed on the left.
Long Knife Right
5+
(V2)
0
0
The right side of the arete.
6b
(V4)
3
4
1
The rounded arete opposite Horror Arete is excellent, and just as scary as its neighbour.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The blunt arete on the next boulder along towards Big Sister is nice.
Topo
Big Sister
Just along from the Indian's Head, two blocks known as Big Sister and Little Brother offer excellent climbing with good landings. Descent is via the short, narrow, mainland wall.
The Cement Garden
7c
(V9)
1
0
The wall left of Sisters of Mercy via a very long reach.
Sisters of Mercy
6c
(V5)
3
5
1
The centre of the wall facing Little Brother on rubbish slopers.
Hanging Flake
3
(V0-)
0
0
The obvious hanging flake gives nice climbing.
5+
(V2)
2
11
2
Slap from big holds to the ledge. Nice.
Big Sister
4
(V0)
1
0
On the other face of the block, the left edge.
6b+
(V4)
1
0
2
Use the crack and ledge to the left to reach a big sloper and the top. Height-dependent.
Sad Sister
5+
(V2)
1
3
1
The flake crack, with a tricky rockover to reach the top. Scary.
Topo
Little Brother
4
(V0)
1
0
The wall left of the recess in the face opposite Big Sister.
Brotherly Love
6b
(V4)
3
7
3
An excellent problem up the wall above the right side of the recess.
6a+
(V3)
1
0
2
An eliminate between the recess and the arete.
Oh Brother
5+
(V2)
3
0
2
The arete on its left.
Twin Brother
5+
(V2)
0
0
On its right side the arete is a more difficult proposition.
A Little Pain
5+
(V2)
0
0
The wall to the right of the arete.
4
(V0)
0
0
The shorter wall further right past a shallow pocket at the top.
Topo
The Castle
This is the series of buttresses next to Big Sister/Little Brother. Not the best the area has to offer.
4
(V0)
3
1
0
The first small buttress.
Initial Wall
5
(V1)
0
0
The next buttress has a useful chip at the top.
6c
(V5)
2
0
0
Tricky moves over the bulge.
6c
(V5)
0
0
Traverse the lip of the overhang from left to right, finishing with a tricky move over the bulge.
7a+
(V7)
0
0
The blank wall left of the arete.
Knight's Honour
6b
(V4)
1
2
0
The obvious high nose.
Knot Tonight
3
(V0-)
0
0
The wall left of the layback crack right of Knight's Honour.
Enjoy It
3
(V0-)
0
0
The easy layback crack. Nice.
?
(V?)
2
0
1
The wall right of the crack.
Topo
Sentry Box
The next small buttress has several deep cracks and a classic overhanging nose.
6a
(V3)
0
0
Slap your way up the arete.
Topo
Tilted Pinnacle
The small isolated pinnacle has some quality problems, including a classic mantel.
3
(V0-)
2
0
0
The easy crack on the left side of the wall.
Lean and Mean
6b
(V4)
3
0
The easiest line up the centre of the wall. Excellent.
Earplugs
6c
(V5)
1
0
The wall just left of the arete.
Earache
6c
(V5)
3
4
2
The arete is another excellent problem.
Ear'oule
4+
(V0)
2
2
0
Climb the rounded slab using an obvious flake.
6b
(V4)
0
1
A desperate mantel on the rounded rock right of the steep wall.
Topo
Small Bay
Two boulders slightly lower down the hillside form a small bay, with some pleasant easy problems.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The arete of the left-hand block.
3
(V0-)
1
0
The centre of the right-hand block.
6a
(V3)
3
2
0
The arete of the right-hand block, using a big undercut with the left-hand and a long reach to the top.
At the same level but further on, a jumble of boulders forms a bigger bay.
4
(V0)
1
2
1
The big pinnacle has this impressive arete facing into the bay. The easiest way off the pinnacle is down the crack on the right.
4
(V0)
0
0
The left side of the arete, moving right at the top.
Block Off
5+
(V2)
1
0
The short crack and vague scoop left of the arete.
Not Cadbury's
5
(V1)
0
0
The flakes further left. Good.
6b
(V4)
0
0
The big overhang opposite the pinnacle, has a desperate mantel to finish.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The wall and roof further right. Scary.
Duck
3
(V0-)
1
1
0
On the downhill face of the boulder between Big Bay and the Bruiser, climb the central feature.
Topo
The Bruiser
Further on from Big Bay, and at the same level, this area consists of several buttresses with a few good problems.
A Mouthful of Crystals
6c
(V5)
6
2
On the lowest boulder in this area. Pull on with two poor slopers and slap for the top.
6b
(V4)
1
6
0
Starting at an obvious pocket, slappy moves lead up and right on slopers to a final rockover. Excellent.
5
(V1)
1
1
The next boulder up the hillside has this entertaining problem on its uphill side.
5
(V1)
1
0
The big rounded boulder has this nice arete.
Bruiser
5
(V1)
1
0
The wide crack is excellent.
Topo
Obscene Cleft
The next boulder along has a big cleft in its top half.
Black Cheek
6a+
(V3)
4
1
The blunt arete right of the cleft to the break, then jump off. Superb, unusual climbing.
Beta Blocker
6a
(V3)
1
0
The wall to the right of the arete.
Topo
Jerry's Arete
Directly up the hillside from the Bruiser area is this big isolated block with an impressive arete.
Tom's Wall
6c+
(V5)
2
0
The blank wall left of the arete.
Jerry's Arete
7b+
(V8/9)
3
20
6
The impressive blank arete is one of the classics of the area.
7b
(V8)
0
0
Right-hand version of Jerry's Arete. Start with left hand in starting pocket and right hand on arete to right, bullwork up aretes until it's possible to step left foot into pocket and join top of Jerry's Arete to finish. Avoids all damaged sandy holds.
Slap
5+
(V2)
0
0
The arete right of the hideous crack.
Whillans' Jam
5
(V1)
1
0
The layback flake further right.
3
(V0-)
0
1
On the edge above Jerry's Arete, this problem climbs the superb sharp arete - start on the left, finish on the right.
Topo
The Villain
Near the trig point there are a series of vertical walls and aretes that give excellent climbing. This is the left-most area.
6a
(V3)
2
0
0
The wall just right of The Villain.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The right arete of the crack right of The Villain.
Perfection
5
(V1)
1
3
1
The narrow ramp line right of the crack.
Topo
Small Smart Wall
The next wall along is one of the best areas at the Bridestones. There is some confusion over where exactly the Small And Smart problems go, but that's not important - all the problems are good.
The Far Side
6b+
(V4)
1
0
0
On the boulder in front of the edge. Starts lying down with heel on the L arête and avoids the supporting boulders of the block.
Straight And Narrow
4
(V0)
0
0
The narrow buttress at the left-hand end of the wall.
4
(V0)
1
0
The arete left of Rampart.
Rampant
6b
(V4)
1
0
0
An eliminate up the wall between the arete and the ramp of Rampart.
Rampart
5+
(V2)
2
6
0
A good little ramp line with unusual climbing.
Face Slap
3
(V0-)
1
0
The excellent flake crack right of Rampart.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The arete of the crack on the next buttress.
6b+
(V4)
1
0
An eliminate up the centre of the buttress without the aretes. Much harder than it looks!
Topo
Flake Out
The next buttress, really a continuation of the edge, is a bit higher.
?
(V?)
0
0
The slim, high buttress.
5
(V1)
3
0
The left arete of the next buttress. High and scary.
Flake Out
5+
(V2)
3
8
2
Start up the arete then move right to climb the big hanging flake. Superb and high!
Flake Off
5+
(V2)
1
4
2
Gain the hanging flake from the right arete.
Big Nose
6a
(V3)
3
7
0
The arete on the next boulder to the right. Great climbing.
6a
(V3)
1
1
0
The blunt arete to the right.
6b
(V4)
1
1
0
The centre of the wall.
5
(V1)
0
0
Another blunt arete.
?
(V?)
2
0
On the next boulder along, the sharp arete climbed on the right.
Buttonhole
?
(V?)
0
0
The rounded left arete of the big buttress. High and scary.
Things to Come
7a
(V6)
0
0
Mantel onto the front face and either continue if you're brave or jump off.
Topo
The Cheeseblock
This small block has unusual wrinkly rock in its lower half, and some crimpy problems.
7b
(V8)
1
5
2
The left arete of the steep wall.
Cheeseblock
7b
(V8)
1
7
5
A hard move to a flake gains a sloping finish. An alternative, possibly easier start traverses in from the undercuts of the previous problem.
Bridesmaid
6a
(V3)
4
9
2
The blunt right-hand arete, climbed on the right. Superb.
4
(V0)
0
0
The crack in the slab isn't particularly memorable.
The Big Cheese
7c+
(V10)
0
0
Start below Bridesmaid. Low level traverse left to finish up Cheeseblock then left to exit of arete problem.
Topo
The Bridestone
Climbing on the Bridestone itself is banned but the boulders nearby have some good problems.
6a
(V3)
1
1
Sit start at a hole and use a sloping flake to gain the top.
3
(V0-)
1
0
An easy slab.
Last Love
5+
(V2)
4
4
1
Left of Big Bash, in the centre of the wall is a flake. Reach this by some strange contortions!
Big Bash
6b
(V4)
5
10
0
A good problem up the blunt arete. Lunge between two big pockets to reach a high and scary top-out.
1
