One of the big Yorkshire crags, Brimham has hundreds of routes and boulder problems scattered across numerous pinnacles and buttresses. The bouldering is well spread out, so be prepared to walk around a bit to sample it all.
The Scenery
Brimham is a unique place, with hundreds of pinnacles and buttresses spread across a wide area. The view over Nidderdale is superb.
Trees
1
0
Winter trees near Fag Slab.
Sunset
3
0
The sunsets over Nidderdale can be superb.
Pommel Area
This is the small collection of buttresses near the car park. One of the best areas of Brimham for bouldering, with good rock, flat grassy landings, and plenty of strenuous problems with sloping top-outs. It's also easily accessible, no more than a minutes walk from the car park.
Small Roof is the boulder with the obvious large horizontal roof. In front of it is the free-standing Easy Boulder. Opposite these two boulders are four boulders which join together to form a mini edge. The first boulder is dirty and has no worthwhile climbing on its outer faces, but the gully between it and Black Dog Boulder is more interesting. Black Dog Boulder, Pommel and the Recess have some excellent problems. Finally, some distance further on and over a stone wall, The Anchor is a low, horizontal roof which is worth finding.
Topo
Easy Boulder
The first block in the Pommel area has a short wall with numerous easy problems.
3
(V0-)
0
1
The centre of the slabby wall.
4
(V0)
0
1
The vague arete just to the right.
Topo
The Gully
The right wall is best, with a nice crimpy wall and a pleasant easy arete.
?
(V?)
0
0
The first line on the left wall of the gully.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The slim flake in the centre of the left wall. Topping out would be unpleasant due to copious heather - jump off instead.
6c+
(V5)
0
0
A nice dyno further right, spoilt by a sharp finishing hold that bites.
4
(V0)
2
3
5
The square cut arete on the right wall is excellent.
6b+
(V4)
0
1
The wall to the right of the arete on small crimps. Several variations are possible.
Topo
Black Dog
The left arete of this boulder is the highlight.
7b
(V8)
1
3
0
In the centre of the wall to the right of the arete, dyno from undercuts in the break to the sloping top.
5
(V1)
1
3
4
The hanging flake in the arete further right, with another interesting finish. A cramped 7a+ from a sit-start.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The crack in the wall to the right, with a sloping finish.
4
(V0)
0
0
Traverse the upper break from left to right.
Pommel
The overhanging arete gives this boulder its name.
Pommel
6b+
(V4)
7
16
13
The fine hanging arete.
Serpico
7a
(V6)
3
1
From the sloper of Benchmark, move up left to finish up Pommel.
Benchmark
7b
(V8)
13
3
A powerful, height-dependent dyno/slap from a useless sloper.
6c+
(V5)
2
5
0
The arete right of Pommel is tricky. Don't bother topping out - it's desperate.
The Recess
The right wall of the recess has more good bouldering.
6b+
(V4)
2
0
2
Climb the left side of the wall from a low start, past a crimp, with a long reach for the top. Various eliminates are possible.
5+
(V2)
0
0
Sit start at a crimp on the lip of a bulge, gain the break by a tricky move and finish easily.
Topo
The Anchor
A low roof beyond the Pommel area, with three good problems which share a typical Brimham rounded finish.
The Anchor Left-Hand
7a+
(V7)
0
2
From the block at the left end of the ledge under the roof, reach the lip and move a long way right to finish up The Anchor, or finish direct with more difficulty.
Pieces of Eight
7b+
(V8/9)
3
1
The central line on the roof, avoiding the big pockets on The Anchor and finishing direct.
The Cubic Block
The Cubic Block is an unmistakable huge boulder near the car park. To reach it take the small path that leads out of the left-hand car park, past a "limit of National Trust property" sign, heading slightly right. There are some problems on the front of the block, left of the easy slab, and plenty more on the back - the super-steep Joker's Wall. Heading left from the sign instead of right takes you to the Small Roof/Pommel area - the bouldering here is superb. The Anchor, a short walk beyond, is also worth finding.
The Arch
Just above the car park and to the right of the path to the Cubic Block is a unique arch feature.
6a+
(V3)
1
0
0
Sit start under the arch and follow the obvious break line.
?
(V?)
1
0
0
Opposite the arch.
The Cubic Block
The Cubic Block is immense. Approaching from the car park, the easy slabby side is reached first. Left of the big slabby face there are a few good problems.
6a
(V3)
2
1
4
The short arete from a sit start, past a pocket on the right.
6a
(V3)
4
8
11
Juggy, overhanging wall with a big slap for the top. Excellent.
7a+
(V7)
3
2
Start left of the arete, drop down, traverse all the way right or finish up the bulge.
The U Tube
7b+
(V8/9)
0
1
Climb out from under a curious U-shaped hole half way up the slab.
Topo
Joker's Wall
The back wall of the Cubic Block is seriously overhanging and has some good powerful problems.
6a
(V3)
0
0
Left arete of the wall. Climb to the second break.
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
Left side of wall. Reach from undercut to jugs in the next break.
Joker's Wall
5+
(V2)
0
0
From break to big pocket and the next break.
5+
(V2)
0
0
Another break-to-pocket problem.
7a
(V6)
1
5
1
Reach the pocket in the wall with a big reach from the undercuts to the right. Optionally sit-starts, with or without big flake.
Slapstick
7c
(V9)
0
0
Big move to slopey edge and the top.
6c
(V5)
0
0
Follow the rightwards-rising line of small edges towards the crack.
6b
(V4)
6
2
The line of least resistance up the wall just left of the crack. Easiest method uses the big undercut.
Minion's Way
5
(V1)
1
5
1
A classic jam (or layback!) crack. Optional sit-start. Heinous.
8a
(V11)
0
0
The wall has a pathetic hold.
Fred's Under Tens
8a
(V11)
0
0
Wall just left of the flake.
6c+
(V5)
3
3
1
The strenuous right-facing flake towards the right side of the main wall.
Upside Your Head
?
(V?)
0
0
Wall/arete. Was 8a until a pebble broke.
Oops
?
(V?)
0
0
From arete, climb wall using big pocket up right.
7a
(V6)
0
0
From crimps, reach the large pocket on Oops.
6b+
(V4)
1
5
Climb the short crack underneath the roof from a sit start. Good.
6a
(V3)
0
0
Climb the jamming crack at the extreme right end of the wall, and follow the curving roof crack leftwards.
Eliminates and Variations
No Joke
6c+
(V5)
1
11
4
An eliminate at the left side of the wall. Climb between breaks without undercuts.
Traverses and Links
Joker's Wall Traverse
7a
(V6)
1
2
1
Traverse the break from the arete rightwards to finish up the wall left of the crack. Other variations exist - e.g. traverse right to left.
Ironside
8a+
(V12)
0
0
A mammoth low-level, right-to-left traverse of the entire wall. Start at the jamming crack at the extreme right. Traverse left (avoiding the roof crack near the start), keeping low round the arete, to an easy finish reversing Joker's Wall Traverse.
The Woods
In the woods between the Cubic Block and Cleft Buttress (described later) there are dozens of boulders of varying sizes. There are plenty of good problems hidden in the undergrowth here, most of which have good rock and good flat landings.
The Lost World
In the woods below the Cubic Block and very close to the private road is a small boulder with a horizontal roof.
The Lost World
7a
(V6)
4
9
8
From holds at the back of the roof reach to the lip and slap for the big hole.
7a
(V6)
0
1
Traverse right-to-left under the roof to finish up the left wall.
5
(V1)
3
1
1
The wall just right of the right arete of the front face.
Unnamed Boulder
Beside the path running between Acme Wall and the Cubic Block is a small boulder with a low, horizontal roof.
7b
(V8)
4
3
Sit-start on the far right of the roof, with footlocks in the break. Follow the lip leftwards to finish up the arete.
6c+
(V5)
0
0
The short nose which forms the finish of the main roof problem is worthwhile on its own. Start on obvious holds on the lip and make awkward moves to reach the top.
Acme Wall
A smooth, high, slightly off-vertical wall with a classic boulder problem/micro-route.
6b+
(V4)
1
0
0
Steep arete on the boulder in front of Acme Wall.
Acme Wall
6a
(V3)
4
8
5
An excellent problem up the centre of the smooth wall past a pocket.
Peerless
6a
(V3)
0
0
Crouch/sit start under the low roof between Acme Wall and The Rack. Climb out to a standing position above the roof, jump off or finish up the route Peerless.
The Rack
6c
(V5)
5
5
A long stretch between two breaks. Very height dependent.
Topo
Happy Days
Beyond Acme Wall this small buttress has a handful of good problems. The rock is sharp in places.
6b
(V4)
0
0
The roof and slab left of the scoop of Happy Days via a large pocket.
Happy Days
7a
(V6)
2
8
16
A good problem up the scoop above the roof. Start on the big hold on the lip, or only slightly harder, from the back of the roof.
Bilge Pump
6c
(V5)
6
3
The sharp, undercut arete.
Traverses and Links
7b
(V8)
1
1
Start in the left-hand corner and traverse right under the roof to finish up Happy Days.
7b+
(V8/9)
2
13
5
From good holds at the back of the left-hand side of the roof, reach out to the lip and traverse right to finish up Happy Days.
The Fonz
8a
(V11)
7
0
Climb out from the back of the roof to the big hold on the lip, traverse right along the lip to a big flake on the arete. Finish up the arete (Bilge Pump).
Mr C
8a+
(V12)
2
3
1
The complete lip traverse from left to right, finishing along The Fonz.
Z Cars
7a+
(V7)
0
0
Traverse the lip to the right of the arete to finish up Bilge Pump.
Topo
No Red Tape Buttress
A small buttress but with several good technical problems.
4
(V0)
0
0
The left side of the wall is more awkward than it looks.
No Red Tape
4+
(V0)
0
0
The centre of the wall past a big pocket.
7a+
(V7)
4
3
An excellent rockover problem, starting from a positive crimp on the lip of the roof.
7a+
(V7)
1
2
Sit start under the right side of the roof and climb the left side of the arete.
Traverses and Links
No Red Tape Traverse
7b
(V8)
12
2
A quality low-level traverse of the buttress, starting at jugs on the left-hand side and finishing up the wall right of the arete.
5
(V1)
0
0
Traverse the high-level break from left to right, starting up the scoop on the left side of the wall. Jump off.
Unnamed Boulder
Left of the path between No Red Tape and Cleft Buttress, somewhere.
Mal De Genou
7a+
(V7)
1
5
0
The Flying Saucer
Above the Acme Wall/Happy Days/No Red Tape area is a complex area of pinnacles. Much of the rock is useless for bouldering, but there are a few boulders worth finding. Alien Nation is one of these.
Alien Nation
6a+
(V3)
1
1
0
An excellent roof problem, rather spoilt by a dirty finish.
The Edge
The trees run out past Cracked Buttress at open grassy area beneath Cleft Buttress. Running north from here there are numerous buttresses ranging in height from a few metres to twenty metres. Many of these have worthwhile bouldering.
Triangular Roof
The next area along the main edge from Cleft Buttress is Cracked Buttress, named (presumably) for its prominent crack lines. Beneath the buttress are two large boulders - Triangular Roof and the imaginately named Trackside Boulder.
Rachael's Box
7a+
(V7)
3
2
From undercuts under the roof, pull through the roof rightwards, finishing right of the arete. Step off or finish up the green slab above.
Triangular Roof
6c+
(V5)
1
0
From the same start, climb leftwards across the roof and finish left of the arete past an obvious pocket.
The Archer
7c
(V9)
0
1
SD start on the left arete, follow the lip rightwards to finish up the arete (as for Rachael?s Box).
Longbow
7a
(V6)
1
0
2
Arete on the back of the Rachael's Box boulder. Start sitting and climb the arete with heel/toe-hooks. Needs a couple of pads for the landing.
Trackside Boulder
This boulder has a big slab which is pleasant and easy, with a shorter, steeper wall to its left.
6a
(V3)
1
0
0
The left side of the arete has good moves.
Astroturf
6b
(V4)
2
0
1
The arete on its right side is more difficult, taken direct.
6a
(V3)
1
3
0
Start in the centre of the slab but move left to the arete as soon as possible. Nice and delicate.
Topo
Lover's Leap - Main Edge
The edge around Lover's Leap has some of Brimham's longest routes such as the classics Left Wall and Birch Tree Wall. There are also a few good boulder problems. Two walls either side of a wide corner crack, right of Birch Tree Wall, have the best of the bouldering.
5+
(V2)
2
1
0
The left arete, with a less than ideal landing.
?
(V?)
0
0
The hanging crack.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The unpleasant-looking offwidth crack in the centre of the wall.
6a
(V3)
1
0
2
The centre of the slab right of the corner. Use a good pocket and high step to reach the next break.
5
(V1)
0
0
The right arete of the slab.
6c
(V5)
1
3
5
The overhanging side of the right arete is quite tricky.
1
(V0-)
1
2
0
A secret project somewhere near Lover's Leap.
Lover's Leap Boulders
Just past the main edge at Lover's Leap, across a gully lie some high
One Love
7c
(V9)
1
1
0
Climbs the big nose/arete left of E.S.P. From the boulder, reach (or jump to) the flake under the roof. Swing left and climb the nose on its left-hand side. Spotters and multiple pads advisable.
E.S.P.
7b+
(V8/9)
0
0
Climbs the wall/groove right of the roof from a sit-start. Spotters and multiple pads advisable.
6c+
(V5)
4
12
0
An tall, isolated buttress has a shallow scoop with this excellent problem. Climb the scoop to a sloping break up right, then jump off or continue to the top (bold!).
Green Arete
Just before Black Chipper area is a green boulder partially hidden by the trees.
Green Arete
6c
(V5)
0
0
The arete of the boulder on its steep side is good but spoilt by the sharp and lichenous rock.
Ritornal
Beyond the main edge there are a few more boulders.
Ritornal
6a
(V3)
5
8
1
A big scary arete with the crux at the top. Bad landing.
Inner State
7b
(V8)
0
0
Straight up the wall between the two aretes.
Successor State
7a
(V6)
3
0
1
Nice highball arete right of Ritornal.
?
(V?)
0
0
The right side of the Successor State. Looks desperate, but it's an arete so it must be possible.
Combination Cracks
5
(V1)
0
0
Big corner crack.
Alcove Wall
5
(V1)
1
0
1
Centre of the wall, stepping right at the alarmingly round finish.
Flakey Wall
5
(V1)
0
0
Short arete/wall on big holds.
Above Black Chipper
Leaning Tower of Brimham
7a
(V6)
0
0
Leaning arete in the jumble of boulders above Black Chipper and Successor State. Clamp your way up the pillar and try not to think about the landing. A few pads and a spotter or two are advisable!
Fibonacci Sequence
5+
(V2)
0
0
The arete of Leaning Tower of Brimham on its slabby right-hand side.
Galileo
6a
(V3)
0
0
The centre of the slab to the right of Fibonacci Sequence using a pocket and some small crimps.
Bad Touch Area
This area, recently unearthed by Paul Clough and friends, lies between Black Chipper and Dougies Dilemma. It's a slightly esoteric area, but worth finding as there are some good problems.
7a+
(V7)
2
3
0
An eliminate up the slab without the arete on the left or the pebble on the right.
6b
(V4)
3
0
0
Further along, climb the overhanging groove from a sit start.
6b
(V4)
1
4
1
The left arete of the groove, climbed on its right. An excellent problem, better than it looks.
Duggies Dilemma
The next buttress beyond the Bad Touch area is Duggies Dilemma. There are some pleasant short routes here, a couple of very highball boulder problems, and a nice low traverse.
Mustard
7a+
(V7)
7
0
The centre of the right-hand wall, starting without the left arete or the crack on the right and finishing via a mono and the right arete.
Ten Bears
6b+
(V4)
0
1
The boulder in front of the butress has this right-to-left traverse along the lip of a small roof and up the arete. A lower version is possible at around 7a.
Charming Crack
A complex area of buttresses, prows and gullies. The first problems lie in a gully leading down from the top path; the last problem is further right (looking in to the crag), on the main edge.
?
(V?)
0
0
A small arete on the main edge. Jump off from the break.
Fag Slab
The last section of the edge. There's lots of undocumented bouldering here.
Bellyporker's Progress
7b
(V8)
1
4
0
Awesome highball arete, climbed on the steep side.
The Junk Yard Boulder
A long way below the main edge, straddling a wall between the Brimham trees and the fields beneath the crag, is this lone boulder. The rock is poor.
The Top
Away from the vaguely-defined edge of Brimham moor, on either side of the main paths from the car parks to Brimham house, the landscape is dominated by countless bizarrely shaped pinnacles and boulders. Many of these are useless for bouldering, but amongst the rubbish there is some excellent climbing to be found. The rock is generally poorer than that of boulders along the edge.
Unnamed Boulder
A small boulder near the main car park. Follow the path behind the ticket machine for about fifty yards. The boulder is on the left, twenty feet off the path.
Topo
The Clearing
This isolated block lies in a clearing to the right of the main path from the car park to Brimham House, not far along.
The Clearing
6a
(V3)
4
3
2
A good dynamic move up the blunt nose of the block lead to an unpleasantly dirty finish.
4
(V0)
0
0
The centre of the wall to the right.
3'10
Between the Clearing and the Blacksmith there is a cluster of small boulders on top of a slight hill.
3'10
7c+
(V10)
11
0
A short, powerful problem climbing the rounded nose of one of the small boulders.
Andy's Traverse
7b
(V8)
4
1
Traverse the sloping lip of the boulder from left to right, finishing with a rockover onto the slab.
Zebra Buttress
A large buttress with a nice roof, with several smaller boulders nearby.
7a
(V6)
0
0
On a smaller boulder near Zebra, start at a flake and climb the centre of the wall without the block on the left. 7a+ avoiding the arete.
Dog's Head
Opposite the Blacksmith across the path is a jumble of boulders and pinnacles. There are a few problems here but the rock is generally poor.
6c
(V5)
1
2
0
An excellent little sit-start arete, slightly spoilt by gritty rock.
6a+
(V3)
2
0
0
Sit start at some crumbling holds and finish with a nice rockover through the tube.
Flower Pot Rock
This is the area opposite The Blacksmith on the same side of the track.
Hussefelt
7c
(V9)
2
0
An obvious arete.
6b
(V4)
1
1
1
Sit start in the cave, then use a kneebar and lots of slopers to gain the top.
The Castle
The long wall opposite the Niche is generally disappointing from a bouldering perspective.
6a
(V3)
2
0
0
Climb through the slight alcove just right of the detached buttress. Jump off at the break. Nice and technical.
Topo
The Potty
Above Lover's Leap there are numerous boulders of varying sizes. This large boulder has one good problem, plus several others that are spoilt by bad landings.
The Potty
6a
(V3)
2
1
1
An excellent and unusual problem, featuring a long reach to a huge pocket.
The Prow
Near Brimham House, on the other side of the track, is a small boulder with a prominent prow.
The Prow
5+
(V2)
2
3
2
A good problem climbing the prow from a sit start, using both aretes.
The Druids Idol Area
The Druids Idol is a large boulder, undercut on all sides. Climbing has been banned on the Idol itself due to concerns over its stability, but the boulder alongside, Boat Rock, has a few mediocre problems. The boulder behind Boat Rock isn't very interesting, The Yoke of Oxen, isn't very interesting, but the boulder it has a new, hard problem.
The Dancing Bear
An enormous boulder with an impressive arete (Tender Homecomings, E8).
Take a Bough
7a+
(V7)
0
1
Obvious prow on the boulder opposite Tender Homecomings.
Boat Rock
Boat Rock Arete
6a
(V3)
2
2
1
Climb the bulging arete by a dyno, slap or long reach (depending on height!).
This small area just off the path above Fag Slab has a couple of quality problems. Pinnacles Boulder 19 in the bouldering guide.
Pinky
7a+
(V7)
2
9
3
The vague scoop from a standing start is excellent. The sit-start is much harder.
Pinky
?
(V?)
1
0
The sit-start hasn't been repeated since the crucial foothold broke.
Pinky Traverse
7b
(V8)
1
1
3
Easier version of Pinky Traverse, finishing via a big right-facing flake above the break.
Pinky Traverse
7c
(V9)
3
2
Traverse the sloping break from left to right, finishing around the arete.
7c
(V9)
0
0
Climb the rounded arete from a hanging start on a layaway.
6b
(V4)
0
0
A crappy sit-start problem on the boulder to the right.
4
(V0)
1
0
0
Left side of arete.
6c+
(V5)
0
0
Start on the huge hold and climb the hanging slab without the left arete.
Topo
Unnamed Boulder
Opposite the short side of the Pinky boulder is a short arete.
4+
(V0)
1
1
0
Nice arete.
5+
(V2)
0
0
Centre of wall, avoiding arete on left and crack on right.
Topo
Unnamed Boulder
An easy angled wall facing the path near Pinky. Nice easy climbing on good rock. The wall is climbable anywhere really; the lines are arbitrary.
5
(V1)
0
0
The left hand side of the wall.
4
(V0)
0
0
Just to the right, starting at some small edges.
3
(V0-)
0
0
Further right, past a slot, where the angle is slightly gentler.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The easy right side of the wall.
Traverses and Links
6a
(V3)
0
0
Traverse the wall right-to-left, finishing up the arete.
Fook Nose
Beyond the Fag Slab/Pinky area, across a narrow valley, lies this collection of boulders.
Old Greg
7b
(V8)
2
0
0
Left side of Old Pete arete.
Old Pete
7b
(V8)
1
7
2
An obvious undercut arete at the right end of the area, climbed on the right, from a standing start.
The Moor
The expansive Brimham moor, right of the the main track to Brimham house, has a lower concentration of pinnacles and bouldering, but of course there are some classic boulder problems to be found.
Topo
Hidden Roof
This small buttress isn't easy to find. From the Niche area, follow a grassy track on the other side of the main track. The roof is hidden behind some trees, and the clean wall immediately to its right is more obvious.
Hidden Roof Traverse
7a+
(V7)
1
0
The traverse under the roof, in either direction. The crux is a crimpy move at the right-hand end.
5
(V1)
0
0
The left arete of the crack, over the bulge. Nice, if slightly artificial.
4
(V0)
1
0
3
Climb the right side of the crack to a high finish on the right.
6a+
(V3)
4
0
1
A good problem up the centre of the wall, starting at a good layaway, via a long reach.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The easy right side of the wall.
Topo
Heart-Shaped Slab
This large boulder is easy to spot from a distance, and is particularly obvious from the road. It has a large, easy-angled but undercut front face, with shorter, steeper walls either side. The rock isn't great, but there is at least one classic problem here.
6b
(V4)
0
0
Start at a big pocket right of the arete, then traverse left round the arete.
5
(V1)
1
1
The wall immediately left of the slab. Forget technique, just jump for the huge hold.
6b+
(V4)
1
0
The left edge of the slab, starting at a big layback hold.
5+
(V2)
2
5
3
An absolutely desperate (but quite amusing) mantel onto the front of the slab.
6b
(V4)
0
0
The scoop further right, with a yoga move to start.
Heart-Shaped Slab Arete
6c+
(V5)
3
1
Starting at some undercuts on the steep wall right of the slab, slap up the arete to a tricky mantel onto the dirty slab. A classic.
Dead Man Walking
7c
(V9)
2
0
The rounded arete all the way from the start.
Kangaroo Wall
A prominent wall close to the road and Heart-Shaped Slab.
The Road Rage Experience
7a+
(V7)
1
0
0
Interesting highball bulge.
Over the Road
There are a few boulders across the road from the main Brimham moorland.
7b
(V8)
0
0
An obvious prow near the road, near the hump in the road when heading from the main car park towards Summerbridge.
The Prow
7c+
(V10)
4
0
The prow without the block.
