Away from the central area at Brimham there are several smaller areas of varying character and quality.
Hare Heads
This area lies at the northeast edge of the main Brimham moor. There are several buttresses most of which are rather high, with poor rock. The boulder nearest the road is the highlight, with lots of short sloper problems on reasonable rock.
Low Roof
The boulder closest to the road has a long roof which runs round the boulder on two sides. The climbing is good but the rock is a bit gritty, especially on the left-hand section. Lots of slopers.
6a
(V3)
2
0
0
On the left-hand section, climb a vague scoop from a sit start, via a good pocket, to a horendous dirty finish.
?
(V?)
1
0
0
The hanging rib from a sit-start via a long reach.
The Lone Deranger
?
(V?)
2
0
0
Sit start at a jug, move up left to finish beside the hanging rib.
6a
(V3)
1
0
0
Right of the tree the roof is split by a deep crack. This problem climbs the left wall, starting at good holds on the lip. Good.
Cyclops
A large pinnacle near Dolphin Nose and Crimpy Roof.
Taggart
7b
(V8)
1
3
0
Start in the cave on the left, go diagonally right on pockets to join and finish up Cyclops.
Lobo
8a
(V11)
3
0
0
Start as for Taggart but instead of finishing up Cyclops continue traversing along the slopey break to big holds at the far right.
Ten Trav
7c+
(V10)
2
1
0
Essentially Lobo, climbed right-to-left. Finish at big holds at the left-hand end, avoiding the plinth.
Five P Ten P
7c
(V9)
3
0
0
Follow Ten Trav to join and finish up Cyclops.
Topo
Crimpy Roof
This small boulder with a low roof has some quality climbing, even though all the problems are essentially variations on the same theme.
Claret
7c
(V9)
1
0
Start on the crimps right of the arete, traverse left (reversing To Me To You) to finish up the centre of the wall.
Topo
Dolphin Nose
The lower half of the north side of this big tower has good climbing.
6a
(V3)
1
1
3
From the hole, dyno double-handed to the jugs. The normal, single-handed dyno is a bit easier.
Dolphin Arete
6a
(V3)
1
1
1
The right arete of the wall, with a tricky move to gain the good flake.
Traverses and Links
6b
(V4)
0
0
A fun traverse along the low break from left-to-right, starting at the hole and finish up to the nose.
7b+
(V8/9)
0
1
The traverse of the middle break on tough crimps.
Bat Buttress
This is the obvious collection of rocks to the right of the road between Summerbridge and the main Brimham area. There's a large buttress, and further along a long, low roof.
Low Roof
There are plenty of good sit-start problems here.
6a
(V3)
1
1
0
The left edge of the roof from a sit-start.
6b
(V4)
1
0
0
The roof slightly further right.
7a+
(V7)
1
0
1
Towards the right-hand side the roof becomes bigger. This hard problem climbs out from a deep pocket via a thin crack.
Riva Hill
Riva Hill is the crag visible beyond Bat Buttress. To reach it, follow the signposted path which runs from the road near the National Trust car park. After crossing open heather/bracken the moorland the path comes to a gate at the National Trust boundary (again indicated on a sign). Riva Hill is immediately on the other side of this gate and the rocks are found by following the wall to the right for just a short distance. The climbing is limited but the situation is nice.
Thanks to Karl Bromelow for the description of this area.
Bovine Buttress
This little-known area certainly isn't the best that Brimham has to offer, but the location is very nice, there are several pleasant problems including one classic. Many of the problems have dirty finishes that are best avoided.
Just Grazing
3
(V0-)
1
0
0
An easy problem at the left side of the best wall.
Riding Bareback
5+
(V2)
3
0
0
A nice problem just to the right. Start at a big pocket and dyno to the break.
Beef Crisis
6b
(V4)
1
0
1
Start at the pocket and gain the break by a crimp up and right. Good.
Saddlesore
5
(V1)
1
0
1
The undercut wall to the right.
Cowboy Daze
6b+
(V4)
1
0
2
The big undercut arete is the classic of Bovine Buttress. High and scary with a rounded finish.
Little Brimham
Not one of the better areas of Brimham, with rock that is often dirty, copious bracken in summer and poor landings. There are however some striking lines.
Licence to Thrill
6a+
(V3)
2
2
1
A nice slab problem in the centre of the Warning Walls area.
Boris Or Bust
6b+
(V4)
2
2
2
A superb sharp arete.
Plantation Crack
There are rumours of bouldering to be found on this crag, which lies at the edge of Braisty Woods near Brimham.
Crow Crag
Crow Crag is a large buttress in Braisty Woods, on the opposite side of the road from Plantation Crack and the main Brimham area. South of the main buttress there is a series of smaller boulders which have some excellent bouldering. The highlight is the stunning Fluide a smooth vertical wall past a small undercut.
Half A Drainpipe
The left-most worthwhile boulder in the area.
Half A Drainpipe
7b+
(V8/9)
1
7
0
The fine sharp arete features sloping handholds and little for the feet.
Fluide
Right of Half A Drainpipe and at a slightly lower level is a fine smooth, vertical wall.
6b+
(V4)
3
1
2
The sharp left arete of the wall is excellent.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The right arete is pleasant enough.
1
