Away from the central area at Brimham there are several smaller areas of varying character and quality.
Hare Heads
This area lies at the northeast edge of the main Brimham moor. There are several buttresses most of which are rather high, with poor rock. The boulder nearest the road is the highlight, with lots of short sloper problems on reasonable rock.
Low Roof
The boulder closest to the road has a long roof which runs round the boulder on two sides. The climbing is good but the rock is a bit gritty, especially on the left-hand section. Lots of slopers.
6a
(V3)
0
0
On the left-hand section, climb a vague scoop from a sit start, via a good pocket, to a horendous dirty finish.
?
(V?)
1
0
0
The hanging rib from a sit-start via a long reach.
The Lone Deranger
?
(V?)
2
0
0
Sit start at a jug, move up left to finish beside the hanging rib.
6c
(V5)
1
4
2
Right of the tree the roof is split by a deep crack. This problem climbs the left wall, starting at good holds on the lip. Good.
Harvey
7b
(V8)
3
3
An excellent problem up the line of slopers right of the crack, from a sit start.
Elwood P Dowd
7a+
(V7)
0
3
The reachy wall just right of Harvey, from a sit-start.
7b
(V8)
0
1
Link Elwood into Harvey.
5
(V1)
0
0
Sit-start just right of Jake.
Traverses and Links
Born Slopey
7c
(V9)
0
0
Start under the roof left of the crack (as for the 6b/c up-problem). Climb up to the slopey break and follow it rightwards to finish up the crack right of Elwood. Surprisingly draining!
Cyclops
A large pinnacle near Dolphin Nose and Crimpy Roof.
Taggart
7b
(V8)
4
2
Start in the cave on the left, go diagonally right on pockets to join and finish up Cyclops.
Cyclops
6b
(V4)
0
0
Standing/right-hand start to Taggart. Make a hard move into the pocket and then tackle the slopey top out.
Traverses and Links
Lobo
8a
(V11)
0
0
Start as for Taggart but instead of finishing up Cyclops continue traversing along the slopey break to big holds at the far right.
Ten Trav
7c+
(V10)
1
0
Essentially Lobo, climbed right-to-left. Finish at big holds at the left-hand end, avoiding the plinth.
Five P Ten P
7c
(V9)
1
0
Follow Ten Trav to join and finish up Cyclops.
Topo
Crimpy Roof
This small boulder with a low roof has some quality climbing, even though all the problems are essentially variations on the same theme.
Crimpy Roof
7b
(V8)
1
8
14
Lie-down (!) start under the roof, reach the good crimp on the lip and go for the break.
To You Too
8a
(V11)
2
3
2
A variation finish to To Me To You, using the big sloper with the left hand to get the final break with the right hand right of the arete.
Claret
7c
(V9)
1
1
Start on the crimps right of the arete, traverse left (reversing To Me To You) to finish up the centre of the wall.
Topo
Dolphin Nose
The lower half of the north side of this big tower has good climbing.
The Big Green
7a
(V6)
1
0
Another good problem, climbing direct to the flake on the arete by a long move.
5+
(V2)
1
1
3
From the hole, dyno double-handed to the jugs. The normal, single-handed dyno is a bit easier.
Dolphin Arete
6a+
(V3)
1
2
3
The right arete of the wall, with a tricky move to gain the good flake.
Traverses and Links
6b
(V4)
1
1
A fun traverse along the low break from left-to-right, starting at the hole and finish up to the nose.
7b+
(V8/9)
0
1
The traverse of the middle break on tough crimps.
Maud's Farm
This is the obvious collection of rocks to the right of the road between Summerbridge and the main Brimham area. There's a large buttress, and further along a long, low roof.
Always ask permission at the farm before climbing here. The owners are friendly and are happy to allow climbers access to the rocks, but the crag is very close to their house and it's not unreasonable of them to want to know when people are climbing.
Vlad
A small boulder in front of, and left of the main edge.
Vlad
7b
(V8)
3
0
The small overhanging face of the boulder. Use the block but avoid the left arete. Avoiding the block from a standing start is 7b+.
8a
(V11)
0
0
The sit-start to Vlad. No block.
Bat Buttress
Bat Buttress is a bit high but the climbing is good.
The Riddler
6b+
(V4)
1
1
2
The reachy left arete of the buttress, climbed on the right. Excellent.
All Buns Blazing
5+
(V2)
1
1
1
The centre of the wall right of the slanting crack.
4+
(V0)
1
1
0
Further right is a steep rippled slab. This problem climbs the left side of the slab from a good hold via a rockover and long reach.
Vogue
8a
(V11)
3
0
Obvious clean, south-facing wall. Start in centre of wall at good a crimpy seam and head right to sloper cluster, and right again to a sloper just below top. From here gain the break above.
Turn Me Loose
7b+
(V8/9)
3
0
Steep slab left of the right arete of the wall. Move left at the top to avoid the heather.
Low Roof
There are plenty of good sit-start problems here.
6a
(V3)
1
0
The left edge of the roof from a sit-start.
6b
(V4)
1
0
0
The roof slightly further right.
7a+
(V7)
0
1
Towards the right-hand side the roof becomes bigger. This hard problem climbs out from a deep pocket via a thin crack.
Riva Hill
Riva Hill is the crag visible beyond Bat Buttress. To reach it, follow the signposted path which runs from the road near the National Trust car park. After crossing open heather/bracken the moorland the path comes to a gate at the National Trust boundary (again indicated on a sign). Riva Hill is immediately on the other side of this gate and the rocks are found by following the wall to the right for just a short distance. The climbing is limited but the situation is nice.
Thanks to Karl Bromelow for the description of this area.
Little Brimham
Not one of the better areas of Brimham, with rock that is often dirty, copious bracken in summer and poor landings. There are however some striking lines.
Licence to Thrill
6a+
(V3)
2
2
1
A nice slab problem in the centre of the Warning Walls area.
Boris Or Bust
6c
(V5)
2
5
2
A superb sharp arete.
Plantation Crack
There are rumours of bouldering to be found on this crag, which lies at the edge of Braisty Woods near Brimham.
Crow Crag
Crow Crag is a large buttress in Braisty Woods, on the opposite side of the road from Plantation Crack and the main Brimham area. South of the main buttress there is a series of smaller boulders which have some excellent bouldering. The highlight is the stunning Fluide, a smooth vertical wall past a small undercut.
Half A Drainpipe
The left-most worthwhile boulder in the area.
Half A Drainpipe
7b+
(V8/9)
7
0
The fine sharp arete features sloping handholds and little for the feet.
Fluide
Right of Half A Drainpipe and at a slightly lower level is a fine smooth, vertical wall.
6b
(V4)
3
1
2
The sharp left arete of the wall is excellent.
3
(V0-)
0
1
The right arete is pleasant enough.
Topo
Unnamed Boulder
Above Fluide are two walls separated by a groove.
Hard Target
7b+
(V8/9)
1
4
0
Sit start. Clamp the prow from as low as possible, pull up and gain the arete and a sloping edge on the face. Work your feet out and make a tricky move to a pocket, before working your way up the arete via some tenuous off balance moves.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The thin wall with a reachy start.
Red Heat
7a+
(V7)
0
0
A quality problem starting from sitting, using two holds low on the arete. Gain the big side pull out left and work your way up to the pocket on the arete and an easy finish.
Amino
6c+
(V5)
0
0
A brilliant technical problem up the scooping wall. Well worth seeking out.
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