Caley is one of the finest bouldering venues in the area, if not the country. There is a huge amount of climbing, much of it very high quality. The climbing is in two main areas - the Roadside and the Crag boulders, separated by five minutes walk.
The Crag boulders are divided in two by the track which runs beneath the main edge.
Sucker's Wall
The first boulder on the left beside the main track is huge. All four sides of the block have worthwhile climbing.
Sucker's Wall
3
(V0-)
1
3
0
A line of chipped holds up the big front face of the boulder.
Sucker's Rib
3
(V0-)
0
1
The chipped blunt arete.
Tao
7a+
(V7)
1
5
0
The wall right of the Pinch. Start at the arete and follow tiny holds leftwards to the top.
Eliminates and Variations
Topo
Smear Arete
Behind the Sucker's Rib block there is a collection of several large boudlers. Smear Arete is an obvious slabby arete on the left side of these.
7b
(V8)
3
8
2
Behind Smear arete is an obvious prow. This problem climbs the prow from a sit start.
Smear Arete
5
(V1)
2
1
5
The left side of the undercut arete is excellent.
Smear Arete Right
5
(V1)
0
0
The right side of the arete is also excellent.
7a
(V6)
1
2
4
Smear Arete on its right side, from sitting.
6c+
(V5)
3
2
The obvious low, slopey traverse on the boulder right of Smear Arete.
Low Roof
A small, low roof just above the Smear Arete/Boot Crack area.
Point Break
7b+
(V8/9)
1
2
0
The left side of the roof, from a sit start without the block.
Unnamed Boulder
Above the Smear Arete area, below the crag. Boulder 6 in the Rockfax guide.
Banana Split
7b+
(V8/9)
3
22
3
The impressive arete.
Banana Republic
8a
(V11)
3
6
2
The arete of Banana Split from a sit-start.
Topo
The Boot Crack Boulder
Another huge boulder. The obvious crack in the front face is the route Boot Crack (VS).
Back Wall
6a+
(V3)
0
0
On the back of the boulder, the wall beside the right arete without using the arete.
Back Stabber
6a+
(V3)
2
7
3
The left side of the arete, above a less-than-perfect landing.
Pocket Knife
7a+
(V7)
2
9
7
Climb the left side of the arete from a sit start.
Pocket Rock
6b
(V4)
0
3
The right side of the arete, using a high pocket on the right. Excellent.
Mantel Arete
This boulder has some nice sit-start problems on the little gully wall, an arete with a rounded finish and several more problems further right.
6b
(V4)
1
0
3
Traverse the low break from right to left, then up.
Eliminates and Variations
6a
(V3)
0
0
A good eliminate. From a sit start, press the flake to reach a crimp left of a larger hold.
Roof of the World
This boulder certainly doesn't deserve its name, but there are a few decent problems.
5+
(V2)
1
0
2
The left arete of the roof.
4+
(V0)
2
6
4
The right arete of the roof. Excellent jug pulling.
Arete Boulder
Just beyond the Roof of the World, this boulder has a good arete problem.
5+
(V2)
3
4
10
Climb the left arete from sitting. Pull over at the apex.
Topo
The Crag
The bottom of the main crag has some bouldering. At the left hand side there is a corridor between a huge detached block and the main crag - the slabby side has some easy problems. Further right another huge block leans against the crag, forming a small cave.
Slapstick Arete
7a+
(V7)
3
12
6
The arete right of Fingerknacker Crack. 7b from sitting.
Project
?
(V?)
0
0
On the crag left of the block this blank arete looks superb.
Pedestal Arete
7a+
(V7)
4
1
13
The overhanging arete of the block.
Pedestal Arete Sit-Start
7c
(V9)
1
11
4
The sit-start to the arete is superb.
6a
(V3)
1
0
2
On the other side of the block is another overhanging arete.
Ranieri's Reach
8a
(V11)
0
0
The rightwards-rising traverse line on the wall right of the Pedestal.
Juha's Arete
7c+
(V10)
4
1
The arete on the main crag is an obvious challenge.
Zero Kelvin
The main part of the edge is home to such classic routes as High Noon and Quark. Further along the edge becomes smaller and more broken. This area lies towards the end of the edge.
Zero Kelvin
6c
(V5)
3
1
0
Sit start below a flake, move left to the edge and up to finish.
Pink Wall
The edge peters out at a rippled, pink-coloured slabby wall.
Pink Wall
5
(V1)
2
2
0
The centre of the pink wall above the ledge.
Topo
Hanging Flake
A large boulder near the track, below the right-hand end of the edge. The front face has some big scary problems, with more amenable problems on the other face.
Dr Green Thumb
7a+
(V7)
4
5
0
The wall next to the arete, avoiding holds on the arete.
Green Wall Arete
5+
(V2)
2
4
1
The big arete, climbed on its left side.
4+
(V0)
0
0
On the back side of the block, the left edge via some nice moves.
5+
(V2)
0
0
Starting at the same point, climb straight up via an undercut.
Hanging Flake
6a+
(V3)
2
3
4
A fingery and sustained problem up the hanging flake on the back of the boulder.
Unnamed Boulder
A small, low boulder near Green Wall.
Crunk Juice
7a+
(V7)
4
0
0
The Sugarloaf
This huge boulder lies below the track, opposite Sucker's Wall. There is good climbing on all sides, except the easy slabby side by the track, but it's mostly a bit too big for bouldering.
Route 2
3
(V0-)
1
0
1
The centre of the vertical east face of the Sugarloaf.
Route 1
5+
(V2)
1
0
2
A tricky problem to the right of the centre of the wall, starting up the slanting crack.
The Pancake
The first boulder beneath the track, opposite Sucker's Wall, is the huge Angel's Wall boulder. Below this in the woods is a much smaller boulder with a classic problem up its slabby front rib.
7a
(V6)
1
4
From a sit-start, climb over the bulge left of Mr Smooth.
Mr Smooth
6a
(V3)
7
6
13
A classic teaser up the blunt slabby arete. Somewhat harder from a sit-start.
Topo
The Horn
Below Mr Smooth is a boulder a prominent prow. There are three excellent problems here.
Horn Left
7a+
(V7)
4
2
14
The left arete of the prow. Everything slopes the wrong way.
The Horn
6b
(V4)
4
4
10
Climb the prow by the easiest line - all holds are allowed.
Horn Right
7a
(V6)
1
1
The right arete using the three pockets, with a jump start (or very long reach).
Unnamed Boulder
This boulder is found right of The Horn.
Luna
6b
(V4)
1
2
2
Start from standing to the left of a knee high cave. Crimps and slopers trend up and right to the top.
Unnamed Boulder
Follow path past The Horn, past Luna. On the left hand side is a large flat sloping boulder with a low lip at ground level..
Confessions of a Specimen Hunter
7a
(V6)
2
3
2
A left-to-right traverse of the right hand edge of the boulder. Sit-start on slopers, gain the pocket on the face, and continue along the face to a large hole and the end.
Topo
The Flapjack
This boulder has a slab with some good eliminates, and a shorter, steeper wall with some harder problems.
Flapjack Traverse
7a+
(V7)
5
3
6
An excellent traverse across the wall. Start at the left arete and move right, hands below the top, with a difficult move to cross the slim groove.
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
From the steep wall between the arete and the flake, mantel onto the rounded top. Awkward!
7a
(V6)
2
5
6
The slim groove/flake from a sit-start is very good.
3
(V0-)
0
0
Climb the vague, slanting arete starting at a big pocket.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The line of shallow pockets just to the right.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The slab starting at a shallow pocket.
4
(V0)
1
1
2
The slab left of the slabby scoop.
5+
(V2)
1
3
2
The centre of the slabby scoop is good. Various eliminates are possible.
4
(V0)
0
0
The right arete of the slab is good.
Topo
The Chicken Run
Further down in the trees this small boulder has an excellent arete problem.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The thin wall above the ledge. Scary.
6a
(V3)
1
0
2
The crack and vague arete left of the prominent arete of The Chicken Run, avoiding the two ledges on the left.
Chicken Run
7b
(V8)
2
2
3
Chicken heads up the centre of the wall, without using either arete.
Cold Turkey
5
(V1)
1
3
The arete is nice and delicate.
The Yule Log
This boulder is hidden at the edge of the trees. The big arete is a classic, and the gently-angled slab has plenty of easy bouldering.
5+
(V2)
2
0
0
Just left of the steepest side of the boulder, climb over a small roof onto the green slab. Unusual moves; classic gritstone.
Unnamed Boulder
Two boulders, recently recleaned, near the Sugar Loaf.
6b
(V4)
2
3
1
A traverse.
6c
(V5)
0
0
Another traverse.
The Sandwich
A large boulder just below the track has a few interesting technical problems its steepest face. The big slab further left has lots easy slab-padding problems.
5+
(V2)
2
3
1
Use the undercuts in the break to make a long reach for a pocket over the top.
Topo
The Fairy Cake
Further along and just below the track is a boulder with a triangular face.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The centre of the steep, triangular, downhill face of the boulder.
Topo
The Creme Eggs
This group of four boulders just below the Fairy Cake has more good climbing.
6b
(V4)
2
2
The steep left arete of the lowest egg. Easier for the tall, who should do it from a sit-start for the full tick.
The Creme Egg Eliminate
7a
(V6)
8
14
12
A superb problem up the steep slab. Start on the right arete, move up left past an undercut and chicken head to the top.
6a
(V3)
1
1
5
The right arete is also excellent.
6a
(V3)
1
1
5
The left arete of the second egg, from a sit-start.
?
(V?)
0
0
Start in the middle of the overhanging face and use the right arete to reach the top.
?
(V?)
0
0
The steep arete on the next egg is a bit harder.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The groove in the broken wall to the right of the overhanging wall.
5+
(V2)
2
1
1
The bulging slab on the highest egg. Good slab climbing, better than it looks.
Topo
The Scone
This boulder is hidden in the bracken below the Creme Eggs. It consists of a slab with a good smearing problem, and a short steep wall with a traverse.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The left side of the slab.
5+
(V2)
1
4
4
The right edge of the slab starting at some pockets. Good but artifical - avoid the right arete.
2
(V0-)
0
0
The right arete of the slab. Easy but very good.
The Scone
7a
(V6)
1
5
3
Traverse the slab, then drop down to traverse the slopers on the lip.
5+
(V2)
0
0
Mantel through the middle of the steep side of the boulder.
Topo
The Leftovers
Beyond The Scone is this boulder with three quality hard problems.
The Red Squirrel
7c
(V9)
0
0
Start at the left side of the boulder and traverse right to finish up The Drey.
Two Squirrels
7b+
(V8/9)
1
9
6
An excellent right-to-left traverse along the lip of the boulder.
Three Squirrels
7c+
(V10)
1
0
Two Squirrels, starting from a flake right of the crack.
The Drey
7c
(V9)
6
4
Start as for Two Squirrels but go straight up the wall/arete.
Cuddles
7c+
(V10)
0
0
The Drey, starting from a flake right of the crack.
Eliminates and Variations
The Field Incident
7b+
(V8/9)
2
0
An eliminate between The Drey and the crack on the right.
Dogside Boulders
Follow the path beyond the last boulders at Caley Crag (Scones/Dray) for about ten minutes until you come to a wooden bridge across a stream (a bit of a ravine). Cross the bridge and turn immediately right up and then down the hill. The boulders are on the left. The boulders have been climbed on for years but never documented until recent rediscovery.
Twin Aretes Boulder
6a
(V3)
0
0
Using both aretes.
6a
(V3)
0
0
Right arete only.
Long Boulder
6a
(V3)
0
0
The right arete from standing. Same grade from a sit start.
6a
(V3)
0
0
Long reach left to top, from good hold on right arete.
6b
(V4)
0
0
Pocket on right arête left to high flake, finish top left.
6a
(V3)
0
0
Gain high flake from standing.
Unnamed Boulder
A little further down the hill is a collection of blocks.
7a
(V6)
0
0
A right-to-left traverse of the right-most block, finishing around arete, past solid mono to obvious top out.
1
