Caley is one of the finest bouldering venues in the area, if not the country. There is a huge amount of climbing, much of it very high quality. The climbing is in two main areas - the Roadside and the Crag boulders, separated by five minutes walk. Both are good.
There are two main access points to the roadside boulders from the road - the main Caley gate to the west (right, looking uphill), and a stile to the east (left). The eastern boulders are described first, followed by the Stile boulders.
The Gate Boulders
A concentrated group of boulders large and small, most easily reached from Caley Gate at the right side (looking in) of the hillside.
Topo
Low Pebble Wall
Following the path from Caley Gate, the first boulder reached is Morris Dance, with the prominent crack of Forked Lightning. Low Pebble Wall is the boulder below this. There are at least two classics here, and the other problems are also good.
No Pebble Arete
7b+
(V8/9)
1
25
6
The left side of the slab is superb. Use the arete after the difficult start.
No Pebble Wall
?
(V?)
0
0
No Pebble Arete without the arete.
Cruel Crack
5
(V1)
2
3
1
The nasty looking jam crack is actually very good.
?
(V?)
7
1
The flake in the steep wall to the right from a sit start. Excellent but often wet.
New Jerusalem
7a
(V6)
7
62
23
The ramp and poor holds in the wall right of the groove. Superb. 7a for people of average height or more.
Topo
Morris Dance
This is the high boulder immediately above Low Pebble Wall and right of the big, vertical Rabbit's Paw Wall. It has a slabby front face and vertical right wall.
4
(V0)
0
0
The short, chipped slab left of the bigger slab.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The left rib of the main slab.
Morris Minor
2
(V0-)
0
0
The line of chipped holds in the centre of the slab doesn't make for quality climbing.
Morris Crack
3
(V0-)
0
0
A better problem, laybacking the edge of the deep crack. Nice.
Morris Dance
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
The slim face to the right of the crack has a very high crux.
?
(V?)
0
0
The wall immediately right of the arete.
6c
(V5)
0
2
The sit-start to Forked Lightning Crack adds a worthwhile couple of moves.
6c
(V5)
2
0
Traverse the wall from left to right, finishing up Forked Lightning Crack.
Topo
Otley Wall
The continuation of Rabbit's Paw Wall above the Morris Dance boulder has one of Caley's classic slab problems, and the shorter slab round the corner has some pleasant easier problems.
7a+
(V7)
1
2
A nice little problem left of the line of chipped holds.
Chips
4+
(V0)
2
2
4
The line of chips on the left-hand side of the slab.
Calvinistic
?
(V?)
0
0
The slab between Chips and Otley Wall.
Otley Wall
6a
(V3)
6
14
17
The centre of the slab, gained by a traverse from the left. A classic.
Otley Wall Right-Hand
6a+
(V3)
0
1
A slightly harder variation, gaining the finish of Otley Wall from the right.
Courser Edge
5
(V1)
1
0
The right arete of the slab.
Topo
The Playground
Around the corner from Otley Wall is a long, low slab with numerous chipped holds and a crack in the centre. It is climbable at a low grade at any point. The best problems are eliminates avoiding the chipped holds. Just right is a higher wall.
The Playground
5
(V1)
1
2
7
Climb the slab just right of the crack, avoiding the chips.
Stretcher
6a
(V3)
1
3
6
On the right-hand boulder, climb pockets in the wall above a slightly dodgy landing. Good climbing.
Chicken Heads
5+
(V2)
3
12
10
The line of small chicken heads has a frustrating start. Inexplicably popular.
Topo
Rabbit's Paw Wall
This boulder is huge. Most of the problems are really routes - you have been warned!
Unfinished Crack
VS 4c
0
The crack on the left wall of the block. Ugh.
Permutation Rib
E1
2
4
The big arete. Start by traversing in from Unfinished Crack. Good climbing but don't fall off!
Waite
7c+
(V10)
1
1
The shallow hanging groove next to the arete.
Rabbit's Paw Wall
HVS 5b
7
6
The front of the buttress. A superb route with a tricky move left at mid-height.
Hanging Groove
E2
0
The hanging groove isn't very good, and a fall from it is unthinkable - it's definitely not a boulder problem.
Psycho
Left of Rabbit's Paw Wall is another huge boulder, home to three classic routes. The landings are good but most people will appreciate the security of a top-rope.
Dead Point Dyno
6c
(V5)
3
2
3
A dyno from the obvious jug in the wall right of the Psycho slab.
Path
5+
(V2)
1
15
2
The left side of the arete left of the Psycho slab.
Topo
Crystal Method
The boulders below and left of the Psycho slab are a better size for bouldering, and have some good climbing.
6b
(V4)
0
0
At the far left hand side of this area there is an easy-angled slab. This takes the left most line, starting at some cleaned holds.
6b
(V4)
0
0
The slab just to the right, starting at a small layaway.
6c+
(V5)
0
0
An excellent strenuous problem, traversing the rising lip of the overhang from a low sit-start on the left, finishing at the apex of the boulder.
?
(V?)
0
0
Start at a pocket and small edge, then move up left past a pathetic crimp.
7a+
(V7)
16
3
From the pocket and edge jump up right to the top. May be harder now since a crucial foothold broke.
?
(V?)
0
2
Climb the right arete of the boulder from a sit start.
Crystal Method
7c
(V9)
3
6
On the next boulder, climb the blank overhanging groove starting on the huge jug.
Viscious Streak
8a
(V11)
0
0
The arete right of the groove from a sit start.
Topo
Small Boulder
Below the Psycho area and close to the wall is a small slab facing up the hill. The slab is climable at any point at a low grade.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The easy left arete of the slab.
4+
(V0)
2
0
2
Just right of the arete on little pockets. Nice.
5
(V1)
0
0
The vague rib in the centre of the face.
Topo
The Scoop
The path past the Crystal Method heads downhill to this boulder, which has a smooth slab and vague scoop on its left side, and a steeper, narrow face on its right.
6b
(V4)
1
12
3
Climb the left arete on its right side using all the available holds.
?
(V?)
0
1
The same line but without the arete. Crimpy.
5
(V1)
2
3
1
The blunt arete on chicken heads. Rather height-dependent.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The steep slab right of the arete and left of the scoop.
6b
(V4)
0
0
On the extreme right side of the block, sit down and pull over the small roof.
The Mask
A big boulder right next to the wall by the road. The slabby wall face has a few problems.
Bumfight
6c
(V5)
2
5
0
The wall between the arete of The Mask and Fugee-La.
Topo
Thin Slab
This smooth slab, facing down the hill, is obvious. It has a fine arete, with a steeper wall to its right.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The easy groove on the left-hand side of the slab.
?
(V?)
0
1
The slight groove in the centre of the slab.
Thin Slab
5+
(V2)
2
7
5
Start up thin cracks just left of the arete, then escape left into a little groove. Quite scary.
?
(V?)
0
0
From the cracks move on to the arete and finish direct.
6c
(V5)
0
1
The arete on the steep side. Long, slightly scary and superb.
6c
(V5)
1
6
5
Excellent moves up the centre of the wall.
5
(V1)
3
0
0
On a small boulder below and right of Thin Slab. From a sit-start, traverse the lip left to a rockover onto the top.
Topo
Ripper Wall
A long wall, slabby on the left, vertical further right, with several top quality hard problems.
Ron's Reach/Ripper Traverse
6b
(V4)
1
1
3
A classic highball. Start on the left side of the slab and make a delicate traverse right to a precarious step across the groove. Finish direct.
Wainwright's Wobble
7b+
(V8/9)
0
1
A direct start to Ron's Reach, up the crimpy wall.
Ben's Groove
7b
(V8)
0
2
Pull on to the top of the groove. Highball stuff.
Ben's Groove Sit-Start
7c+
(V10)
3
0
3
The sit-start to the groove. High quality climbing.
Project
?
(V?)
0
0
A line of poor holds up the wall between the groove and the arete.
Secret Seventh
7b+
(V8/9)
5
0
11
The right arete of the wall is superb. A cunning heel-hook helps.
Topo
Unnamed Boulder
Right of Ron's Reach this boulder has a short slabby wall split by a right-facing groove.
6c
(V5)
2
8
6
From the groove, use slopey holds to rockover onto the slab and finish direct. Excellent.
5
(V1)
2
0
1
A nice problem up the slanting groove.
Gripping Groove
Right of the Rocking Stone is a big green slab.
Gripping Groove
5+
(V2)
1
1
1
The bad landing and green rock make the groove gripping.
Chocolate Orange
7a
(V6)
3
3
1
The highball right arete of Gripping Groove. Quality.
Pebble Wall
Another steep slab in the trees right of Terry, above the Great Flake boulder.
MBKC Groove
5
(V1)
4
0
The groove right of Pebble Wall. Ugh, don't bother topping out.
Undercut Wall
Below Pebble Wall there are two connected boulders. The left boulder has an undercut vertical wall.
Eliminates and Variations
7b
(V8)
3
0
0
Climb the wall immediately right of the arete from a sit-start on a block at the base of the arete.
The Great Flake
Directly up the hill from the Psycho/Otley Wall/Morris Dance area, this enormous boulder is unmistakeable. It takes its name from the prominent flake in the centre of the overhanging wall facing the road.
Nothing's Safe
7c
(V9)
5
13
0
An excellent highball problem taking the left side of the blunt arete to the right of the Great Flake.
Bob's Bastard 2
5+
(V2)
1
1
0
Mantel onto the slab at the left-hand of two thin cracks.
The Stile Boulders
Several groups of boulders near the stile towards the left side of the hillside (looking in).
Topo
The Stile
This is the large boulder near the stile next to the road. There is an excellent bold arete problem here.
?
(V?)
2
1
The vague pocketed arete on the left side of the slab facing the wall.
Not My Stile
7a
(V6)
4
22
9
A rounded arete - technical at the bottom, scary at the top. Superb.
Free Stile
4
(V0)
0
1
The slabby right side of the arete.
3
(V0-)
0
0
Wander up the slab to the right of the arete on rounded holds.
Our Father's Arete
Near the Stile, beside the wall is this boulder with a good arete problem.
Our Father's Arete
6a
(V3)
1
2
3
The left side of the sharp arete.
Cresta Run
This is the small roof at the edge of the pine wood beyond Our Father's Arete, about thirty feet up from the road.
The Bat Cave
The left-most area of the crag consists of several boulders, with a prominent perched block forming the Bat Cave itself.
Spoonman
6b
(V4)
2
2
0
An interesting mantel problem on the boulder below and left of the Bat Cave.
Trigger Finger
6a
(V3)
2
1
0
Climb the wall left of front arete of the Bat Cave boulder, from a sit-start.
Nora Batty
7a
(V6)
1
0
0
Start in the bat cave on the slab, climb through a couple of pockets in the roof to a bit of a jump to a ledge, then a grim top-out.
True Pebble Wall
This area consists of several big, smooth walls, directly up the hillside from the Stile. The climbing is good but the problems are mostly high, and not to most people's liking.
Space Ape
7b
(V8)
1
0
1
The left arete of the wall from a sit start, without the block (or 7a with the block).
Smooth Wall
Above Rough Rib and further right (looking in) from True Pebble Wall is a boulder with a gently overhanging, smooth wall facing the road. All three sides of the boulder have problems.
Smooth Wall
6b
(V4)
1
3
1
The line of thin flakes left of centre.
Hanging Nose
Right of Smooth Wall and directly beneath the power lines, the next boulder is a severely undercut slab.
6c
(V5)
3
4
2
Starting from a narrow ledge under the roof, somehow pull over and mantel on to the ledge. Use a knee or cunning technique.
Hanging Nose
7a+
(V7)
1
3
0
The desperate roof and thin flakes to the right, from a sit start.
Ahab
7b
(V8)
3
2
1
The bulge to the right again is even harder.
6b
(V4)
1
2
0
The delicate scoop right of the hanging nose.
Fug Dup
6b
(V4)
2
1
0
Further right, round the corner, climb the roof from a sit start.
Topo
Neat Arete
Above the undercut slab a small wall has several problems.
Queequeg
6b
(V4)
2
1
0
The left side of the wall.
Project
?
(V?)
0
0
Pull on to two small holds in the middle of the wall and dyno for the top.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The pleasant crack.
Mantel Illness
6c
(V5)
3
4
0
Sit start at a flake, reach for the top and finish with a desperate mantel.
Neat Arete
4+
(V0)
0
0
The arete climbed on its right side to a dirty finish. Tricky.
Topo
Rough Rib
A good boulder with a mix of climbing styles.
3
(V0-)
0
0
A mantel problem on the left side of the undercut slab, left of Rough Rib proper.
5+
(V2)
3
0
0
The centre of the slab with a hard start.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The right side of the slab, past a pocket.
5
(V1)
0
0
The wall left of the arete.
Rough Rib Left
5
(V1)
1
3
2
The left side of the arete.
Rough Rib
5+
(V2)
1
1
0
The excellent broad arete with a long reach at the top.
The Groove
7a+
(V7)
2
5
2
The shallow groove to the right with difficult move right to a sidepull above mid-height.
6c
(V5)
2
3
2
An eliminate, climbing the wall beside the right arete with a tricky move at the start. Move left past the layaway to finish.
Layback Arete
4
(V0)
1
0
The right arete is nice.
1
