Situated high on the hillside above Skipton in North Yorkshire, Crookrise is set in a fantastic wild location. The quality of the bouldering doesn't quite match up to quality of the routes but there are still some excellent problems scattered along the edge. The Hovis area has the best of the bouldering, The Crease Direct being particularly noteworthy. Elsewhere on the crag there are some good problems - for example Jason's Roof is probably worth seeking out if 8a roof problems are your thing! Being a long and distinctly uphill walk from the nearest road, the crag tends to be fairly quiet, and trad climbers outnumber boulderers by a large margin - a good place to escape from the crowds of Almscliff.
Crag Top Boulders
A series of small boulders runs south from the trig point along the edge of the moor.
Unnamed Boulder
This boulder lies almost directly beneath the trig point.
Karjala
About two hundred metres before Sadcocs Wall and slightly down from the top of the hill is a large boulder with an undercut wall. The wall faces the trig point, and is well-hidden from the path. There is only one problem here but it's a classic.
Karjala
7a+
(V7)
1
1
2
Climb the edge of the undercut slab from a sit-start on the right, finishing up the arete. Sustained and superb.
Topo
The Sadcocs Boulder
Near the start of the main edge is this huge boulder. The big overhanging wall has some excellent, rather intimidating problems. SADCOCS stands for "Skipton And District Climbing Or Caving Society".
5
(V1)
0
0
The left arete of the wall.
5+
(V2)
3
0
1
From a sit start at a jug, a dynamic move gains a good edge and then the break. Jump off.
6a
(V3)
2
1
0
One of many short sit-start problems. Jump off at the break.
6b+
(V4)
0
0
From the break, a big reach gains the hanging crack.
Sadcocs Wall
6c+
(V5)
3
2
4
The centre of the wall past a large pocket. Steep, high and intimidating, with the crux at the top. A classic.
6c+
(V5)
0
0
Another big problem, climbing the wall further right past a small pocket.
5
(V1)
0
0
Climb up to and up the hanging crack.
5+
(V2)
2
0
0
The rightmost line on the wall leads to a rounded finish.
5
(V1)
0
0
Traverse the half-height break in either direction.
Morokolli
Directly beneath Sadcocs Wall at the edge of the trees is a diamond-shaped wall with one fine problem.
Morokolli
7a+
(V7)
1
3
1
The obvious problem on the boulder. The name means "Bedtime Monster".
The Main Crag
There is some bouldering to be found in a few places on the main edge, and more on the boulders below it.
Ron's Crack
Ron's Crack is the obvious dog-legged, overhanging crack on a huge boulder near the Hovis area. This boulder is a bit too big really, but the smaller boulder in front of it is home to a classic problem.
Topo
Barry Kingsize
A small boulder below the main edge, behind the more obvious Ron's Crack boulder.
?
(V?)
0
0
The left arete of the wall looks scary.
7a+
(V7)
0
2
A low (sit) start to Barry Kingsize, from a good flake on the left.
5+
(V2)
0
1
The right bounding groove of the wall.
There are some fine problems here.
?
(V?)
0
0
On the left hand wall, climb from a small thread above a boulder. Poor landing.
The Crease Direct
6a
(V3)
1
8
6
Balance up the groove. Quintessential grit.
The Fly
7b
(V8)
4
1
1
Superb thin slab right of Crease Direct.
Hovis Direct
6a
(V3)
0
0
Start on the right side of the wall, beside the block. A big rockover leads left into the scoop. Jump off, or solo the rest of the route.
The Matterhorn
Green Beret
6b
(V4)
1
3
0
The big green slab opposite the Matterhorn boulder.
Topo
Happy Landings
Beneath the smooth slab towards the left-hand side of the main crag is this undercut boulder. Numerous possibilities exist in the 6b-7a range.
7a
(V6)
3
0
From a sit-start in the middle of the boulder, move up left past a dubious flake to the lip, and finish with a difficult move for the top.
6c
(V5)
1
2
From the same sit-start, move up right to a good hold on the lip, and use good pockets to get established on the slab.
6a+
(V3)
0
0
The vague rib, past a small flake.
5
(V1)
2
0
0
The left side of the arete of the boulder.
Uphill Struggle
7a
(V6)
0
0
A strenuous right-to-left traverse along the lip of the roof. Finish up problem 2, or further left (harder - 7a+).
The Ruffian Boulder
This enormous boulder near the tree line has a very steep front face.
Soul Fusion
8a
(V11)
1
0
0
The high prow on the overhanging front face.
Topo
Gentian Boulder
At the edge of the trees is a huge boulder with a big slab on one side, and a big roof.
Jason's Roof
8a
(V11)
1
5
3
The big roof is one of Yorkshire's classic hard problems.
Sideliner
8a
(V11)
0
1
From the start of Jason's Roof, head right through the roof.
Central Slab
In the centre of the crag is a big, easy-angled slab with some pleasant easy routes. The left side of the slab is undercut, giving one good boulder problem.
Arsenic Slab Direct
5+
(V2)
2
1
1
Pull over the roof to reach a big flake on the slab. Continue up the slab above, jump off, or traverse off right.
Razor
7c
(V9)
0
0
The left side of the arete of the big pinnacle right of the slabs.
Craven Buttress
There are plenty of problems in this area.
6b
(V4)
2
2
1
A detached block in the centre of the area has this arete between the slabby front face and the steep left face.
3
(V0-)
1
2
0
A fine easy arete problem.
Diet Pepsi
Towards the right (south) end of the crag, near End Slab, is an alcove with a couple of good problems on its left wall.
Diet Pepsi
6a
(V3)
3
6
2
The smooth, crimpy wall in the recess is excellent.
7a+
(V7)
0
0
Start up Diet Pepsi but continue direct up the wall via a tiny gaston.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The excellent rib which forms the right side of the wide crack.
The Everest Region
In a world of its own at the far right-hand (southern) end of the crag (looking-in), a chaotic jumble of boulders, bracken and dead trees is the estoric area of Crookrise. The huge Everest boulder itself is obvious and well-named, and has some fine climbing, much unfortunately high and scary. On the hillside above and below it there is plenty of rock, much of which is worthless but there are a few gems for the adventurous boulderer to uncover.
The Everest Boulder
All sides of this enormous boulder can be climbed, but most boulderers will restrict themselves to the short, steep face of Ron's Crack. The slab on the front face looks superb, but the problems are way too high. The other two sides of the boulder are less interesting, with poor landings.
6c+
(V5)
2
0
3
On the short steep side of the boulder, this excellent problem climbs the vague arete just right of Ron's Crack.
The Renegade Piper
7b
(V8)
1
0
0
An exellent looking line on the back of the Everest boulder.
The Pathside Boulders
Beside the path up to the crag, before the final rise, there are boulders on both sides.
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
A dyno on a boulder to the left of the path.