« Clattering Stones : Deer Gallows »
Home » Crags » Crookrise

Situated high on the hillside above Skipton in North Yorkshire, Crookrise is set in a fantastic wild location. The quality of the bouldering doesn't quite match up to quality of the routes but there are still some excellent problems scattered along the edge. The Hovis area has the best of the bouldering, The Crease Direct being particularly noteworthy. Elsewhere on the crag there are some good problems - for example Jason's Roof is probably worth seeking out if 8a roof problems are your thing! Being a long and distinctly uphill walk from the nearest road, the crag tends to be fairly quiet, and trad climbers outnumber boulderers by a large margin - a good place to escape from the crowds of Almscliff.

Crag Top Boulders

A series of small boulders runs south from the trig point along the edge of the moor.

Karjala

About two hundred metres before Sadcocs Wall and slightly down from the top of the hill is a large boulder with an undercut wall. The wall faces the trig point, and is well-hidden from the path. There is only one problem here but it's a classic.
Karjala (7a+), Crookrise
Karjala 7a+ (V7)   1 photo 1 1 comment 1 1 vote 1
Climb the edge of the undercut slab from a sit-start on the right, finishing up the arete. Sustained and superb.

Topo Expand The Sadcocs Boulder

Near the start of the main edge is this huge boulder. The big overhanging wall has some excellent, rather intimidating problems. SADCOCS stands for "Skipton And District Climbing Or Caving Society".
Unnamed Problem (5+), Crookrise
5+ (V2)   3 photos 3 0 comments 0 0 votes 0
From a sit start at a jug, a dynamic move gains a good edge and then the break. Jump off.
Unnamed Problem (6a), Crookrise
6a (V3)   2 photos 2 1 comment 1 0 votes 0
One of many short sit-start problems. Jump off at the break.
Sadcocs Wall (6c), Crookrise
Sadcocs Wall 6c (V5)   2 photos 2 1 comment 1 3 votes 3
The centre of the wall past a large pocket. Steep, high and intimidating, with the crux at the top. A classic.
Unnamed Problem (5+), Crookrise
5+ (V2)   2 photos 2 0 comments 0 0 votes 0
The rightmost line on the wall leads to a rounded finish.

Morokolli

Directly beneath Sadcocs Wall at the edge of the trees is a diamond-shaped wall with one fine problem.
Morokolli (7a+), Crookrise
Morokolli 7a+ (V7)   1 photo 1 2 comments 2 0 votes 0
The obvious problem on the boulder. The name means "Bedtime Monster".

The Main Crag

There is some bouldering to be found in a few places on the main edge, and more on the boulders below it.

Ron's Crack

Ron's Crack is the obvious dog-legged, overhanging crack on a huge boulder near the Hovis area. This boulder is a bit too big really, but the smaller boulder in front of it is home to a classic problem.

Topo Expand Barry Kingsize

A small boulder below the main edge, behind the more obvious Ron's Crack boulder.
Barry Kingsize (7a), Crookrise
Barry Kingsize 7a (V6)   3 photos 3 video 1 7 comments 7 8 votes 8
The slim groove on the gently overhanging front face. Possible by a subtle static method, or obvious dyno (7a+) - both are superb.

Topo Expand Hovis

There are some fine problems here.
The Crease Direct (6a), Crookrise
The Crease Direct 6a (V3)   1 photo 1 8 comments 8 4 votes 4
Balance up the groove. Quintessential grit.
The Fly (7b), Crookrise
The Fly 7b (V8)   1 photo 1 1 comment 1 0 votes 0
The superb thin slab right of Crease Direct.
Hovis Superdirect (6c+), Crookrise
Hovis Superdirect 6c+ (V5)   3 photos 3 video 1 5 comments 5 5 votes 5
Link the series of poor pockets in the wall. Simultaneously powerful and delicate, and superb.

The Matterhorn

Green Beret (6b), Crookrise
Green Beret 6b (V4)   1 photo 1 3 comments 3 0 votes 0
The big green slab opposite the Matterhorn boulder.

Topo Expand Happy Landings

Beneath the smooth slab towards the left-hand side of the main crag is this undercut boulder. Numerous possibilities exist in the 6b-7a range.
Unnamed Problem (5), Crookrise
5 (V1)   2 photos 2 0 comments 0 0 votes 0
The left side of the arete of the boulder.

Topo Expand Gentian Boulder

At the edge of the trees is a huge boulder with a big slab on one side, and a big roof.
Jason's Roof (8a), Crookrise
Jason's Roof 8a (V11)   1 photo 1 0 comments 0 1 vote 1
The big roof is one of Yorkshire's classic hard problems.

Expand Central Slab

In the centre of the crag is a big, easy-angled slab with some pleasant easy routes. The left side of the slab is undercut, giving one good boulder problem.
Arsenic Slab Direct (5+), Crookrise
Arsenic Slab Direct 5+ (V2)   2 photos 2 1 comment 1 1 vote 1
Pull over the roof to reach a big flake on the slab. Continue up the slab above, jump off, or traverse off right.

Craven Buttress

There are plenty of problems in this area.
Unnamed Problem (6b), Crookrise
6b (V4)   2 photos 2 2 comments 2 1 vote 1
A detached block in the centre of the area has this arete between the slabby front face and the steep left face.
Unnamed Problem (3), Crookrise
3 (V0-)   1 photo 1 1 comment 1 0 votes 0
A fine easy arete problem.

Expand Diet Pepsi

Towards the right (south) end of the crag, near End Slab, is an alcove with a couple of good problems on its left wall.
Diet Pepsi (6a), Crookrise
Diet Pepsi 6a (V3)   3 photos 3 6 comments 6 2 votes 2
The smooth, crimpy wall in the recess is excellent.

The Everest Region

In a world of its own at the far right-hand (southern) end of the crag (looking-in), a chaotic jumble of boulders, bracken and dead trees is the estoric area of Crookrise. The huge Everest boulder itself is obvious and well-named, and has some fine climbing, much unfortunately high and scary. On the hillside above and below it there is plenty of rock, much of which is worthless but there are a few gems for the adventurous boulderer to uncover.

The Everest Boulder

All sides of this enormous boulder can be climbed, but most boulderers will restrict themselves to the short, steep face of Ron's Crack. The slab on the front face looks superb, but the problems are way too high. The other two sides of the boulder are less interesting, with poor landings.
Unnamed Problem (6c), Crookrise
6c (V5)   2 photos 2 0 comments 0 1 vote 1
On the short steep side of the boulder, this excellent problem climbs the vague arete just right of Ron's Crack.
The Renegade Piper (7b), Crookrise
The Renegade Piper 7b (V8)   1 photo 1 0 comments 0 0 votes 0
An exellent looking line on the back of the Everest boulder.

The Pathside Boulders

Beside the path up to the crag, before the final rise, there are boulders on both sides.
Unnamed Problem (5+), Crookrise
5+ (V2)   1 photo 1 0 comments 0 0 votes 0
A dyno on a boulder to the left of the path.