Earl Crag is one of the finest bouldering venues in Yorkshire. There are a large number of problems of all grades, with many technical walls and aretes, and the occasional power problem. Situated on the edge of the moor overlooking the Aire Valley, it faces north and can be green and damp after bad weather.
The Quarry
At the far left-hand end of the Earl Crag edge is a small quarry. Most of the rock in the quarry is poor, but at the left-hand end it is clean and solid. There are a few highball problems/micro routes here.
In Stitches
7a+
(V7)
1
8
0
Climb the blunt arete/prow right of the obvious arch feature.
Topo
The Left-Hand Crag
The left-hand crag is less extensive than the other crag, although it has some classic problems. The smooth Erasor Slab is conspicuous towards the left-hand side; from here rightwards the crag is split into two tiers, with the best bouldering being around Trick Arete and Sloping Beauty on the upper tier. There are a few boulders on the edge left of Erasor Slab, and more scattered boulders to the right of the main edge, near the wall.
Topo
First Boulder
The first boulder, above and before the start of the main crag, has two walls either side of an arete.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The left side of the arete from a sit-start.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The right side of the arete, again from a sit-start.
Topo
Problem Wall
At the left-hand end, before the first major route (the undercut grooved arete of Mindbomb), the main edge is quite short. For some reason the bouldering here isn?t particularly inspiring.
?
(V?)
1
1
The undercut wall is desperate.
7a
(V6)
0
0
The arete.
Problem Wall
6c
(V5)
0
0
Thin moves up the centre of the blank wall.
Pitch At Will
5+
(V2)
0
0
The undercut arete of the next boulder. Scary.
?
(V?)
0
0
The blunt arete.
6b
(V4)
0
0
The left arete of the next boulder.
Project
?
(V?)
0
0
The arete in the recess left of Mindbomb.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The arete of the next boulder along.
Topo
Erasor Slab
This smooth undercut slab is fairly conspicuous. It's a bit too high to be considered bouldering territory, and the landing is poor, but the routes are excellent. The traverse under the overhang is good as well.
Kipper
6b+
(V4)
1
0
The left side of the slab, starting up the overhang. Escape at the break, or continue via a precarious move to the ledge (6c and scary).
Erasor Slab Right-Hand
6a
(V3)
0
0
A direct up the right side of the slab.
5
(V1)
0
0
Traverse the overhang from right to left.
Topo
Pedestal Rib
Further along on the lower tier is a short wall with a small pedestal leaning against it. There are a couple of short routes here, one of which has an excellent dyno problem as a direct start.
Pedestal Rib
HVS 4c
1
1
From the pedestal climb the steep wall on good holds, moving right round the arete to finish.
E2 6a
0
Instead of moving round the arete, finish up left. Usually dirty.
6a
(V3)
2
0
Right of the rib, dyno for the hole in the centre of the wall. Jump off.
Little Greeny
Close Encounter
6b
(V4)
3
0
0
Hanging prow left of the route Little Greeny. Start by undercutting the prow and delicately climb the wall to the break, avoiding the temptation of touching the V-shaped rock jammed in Deep Chimney. Traverse left to finish.
Topo
The Indicator
On the next section of crag there are two sharp fins, one above the other. The lower fin is a good problem, and there are more highball problems on the buttress further right.
Lower Indicator
5+
(V2)
0
0
The lower, undercut fin.
Cosmic Baby
5+
(V2)
0
0
Climb the big roof to get established on the slab above. Traverse or jump off, or continue to the top.
Time To Go
5
(V1)
0
0
The wall just left of the corner. Good but high!
Topo
Problem Rib
The big blank wall above Erasor Slab has some scary climbing. The route Edge of Darkness takes the centre of the wall. The wall to its right is also good.
Problem Rib
5
(V1)
2
0
The left side of the big arete. Traverse off right at the break.
?
(V?)
0
0
The same arete on its right side.
White Wall
5+
(V2)
1
0
The arete and wall on the next buttress. Escape at the break.
Grey Wall
6a
(V3)
1
0
1
The centre of the wall.
Topo
Sloping Beauty
Further right a big boulder has two classic problems, Hanging Groove and Sloping Beauty. The boulder to its right is less impressive, but it has one reasonable problem.
Hanging Groove
6c
(V5)
2
7
9
The hanging crack left of the arete from a sit-start. Sharp!
8a
(V11)
0
0
The impressive overhanging arete.
Sloping Beauty
7b
(V8)
3
23
14
A classic problem up the wall to the right. Reach and hang the sloper, then jump for the jug at the top.
6a
(V3)
0
0
On the next boulder, climb the arete from a sit start.
Topo
Trick Arete
This is a good area for warming-up, and Trick Arete itself is excellent.
5
(V1)
3
1
0
The slab and headwall. High, but the holds are good.
Trick Arete
6b
(V4)
2
21
8
An excellent little arete.
3
(V0-)
1
0
1
The corner is repulsive, but quite entertaining when climbed facing out!
6b
(V4)
0
0
The right wall of the corner on tiny holds.
5
(V1)
0
1
Start in the scoop in the centre of the block opposite Trick Arete, traverse left past a slot to a jug, finish direct.
4
(V0)
1
0
0
The blunt arete straight up past the slot, from a sit start.
5
(V1)
0
0
A big slap from the jug next to the right arete.
6a+
(V3)
0
1
The overhanging arete from a sit start.
6b
(V4)
0
1
A strenuous traverse of the sloping lip of the boulder from right to left. Start at the crack, and at the top of problem 6.
6a+
(V3)
2
0
A short hard slap up the blunt arete on the next boulder.
Topo
Slab and Groove
The next buttress along has a nice slab and a short groove.
4
(V0)
1
1
1
The centre of the slab.
6a
(V3)
1
5
0
The right arete of the slab. 6a+ from sitting. Excellent.
4
(V0)
0
1
The groove to the right.
Diddymen
The next area has several short, sharp aretes. The easy, central arete is Diddymen, a pleasant 3.
Green Groove
Further along and at the same level is a small green buttress with a slim groove in its centre. The groove is pleasant enough when dry.
Topo
Low Slab
Slightly lower down the hillside than the previous boulders and close to the wall is this boulder with a slab on one side and a steep wall next to it.
6a
(V3)
1
2
0
The centre of the slab on pebbles and shallow pockets.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The slab beside the arete.
6b
(V4)
0
0
Climb the arete on the steep side from a sit start. Excellent.
6b
(V4)
0
0
From the same sit-start, climb the centre of the steep wall on dodgy flakes.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The right arete of the wall from a sit-start.
Topo
The Right-Hand Crag
Over the wall from the left-hand end, the right-hand crag is generally bigger and more extensive. The left end is a series of broken buttresses increasing in height to the highest part of the crag around Desert Island Arete. The right end consists of two tiers of smaller boulders that have a high concentration of quality boulder problems.
Topo
Butterfly Wall
The first buttress over the wall has two vertical walls either side of a big green corner.
Green Rib
6b
(V4)
0
0
The big arete - tricky and scary at the top.
6c
(V5)
1
0
Start up pockets in the wall to join Green Rib at the top.
Slim Shady
8a
(V11)
0
0
The smooth wall left of the corner.
Butterfly Wall
7a+
(V7)
0
0
The centre of the smooth right wall of the corner. Usually green and unpleasant.
Superfly
7b
(V8)
0
0
The arete and shotholes right of Butterfly Wall.
Topo
Konrad Bartelski
Further along by the path at the bottom of the edge is this short undercut buttress.
Konrad Bartelski
?
(V?)
0
0
Pull round the huge jammed block left of the undercut buttress.
?
(V?)
0
0
The left arete of the buttress.
6b
(V4)
0
0
The obvious left-to-right traverse line. Looks good but the holds are painful.
?
(V?)
0
0
A direct line through the traverse on the overhanging wall.
5+
(V2)
0
0
Climb direct past the pocket on the slabby wall.
Topo
Desert Island Arete
The highest buttress at Earl has a magnificent undercut arete.
Desert Island Arete
7a
(V6)
2
2
11
The hanging arete is superb.
Andy's Problem
?
(V?)
0
0
From the same start, finish up the vague ramp-line to the right.
DIA Sit Start
7a+
(V7)
1
0
Start with hands in the big jug under the roof, moving up and left to finish up the arete.
Dave's Start
7b
(V8)
0
1
Start from sitting at a slot on the left. Climb out along the edge of the roof to finish up the standing start. Avoid the huge holds right of the arete.
Topo
Sour Grapes
The next section of crag is dominated by a massive roof. An excellent route, Tiger Traverse, traverses the lip of the roof. Further right in a recess there are two excellent aretes. Further right again is an undercut wall with the obvious crack of Sour Grapes.
4
(V0)
0
0
The slabby wall in the recess.
6a
(V3)
1
1
The left-hand of the two aretes is superb.
Rat Au Vin
6a+
(V3)
5
4
4
The right-hand arete is superb and high.
4
(V0)
0
0
The big corner crack.
?
(V?)
0
0
The groove left of the arete on the Sour Grapes buttress.
Sweet Apples
?
(V?)
1
0
The arete left of Sour Grapes. High!
Sour Grapes Traverse
?
(V?)
0
1
Traverse under the roof from left to right to finish in the niche of Sour Grapes.
Ethanoic
6b
(V4)
1
3
1
Pull into the niche from the right.
Topo
Grape Nut
Boundary
?
(V?)
0
0
The groove next to the wall.
Grape Nut
7a+
(V7)
5
8
12
Obvious arete. Jumping from the boulder to the jug lowers the grade to 7a.
Krafty
7c+
(V10)
0
0
The big overhanging arete right of the Grape Nut.
6a
(V3)
2
4
3
Start up the wall next to a boulder, rockover and finish direct.
Topo
Handy Andy's
This area of walls and aretes has some fine climbing.
6a
(V3)
1
2
1
The slabby wall left of the arete is tricky!
4
(V0)
1
1
1
The right side of the arete is much easier.
5
(V1)
0
1
The right wall of the corner past a pocket.
Project
?
(V?)
0
0
The overhanging wall left of Handy Andy's has minimal holds and is probably impossible.
Handy Andy's
7a+
(V7)
2
8
12
The overhanging face, starting from the ledge on the right (7c+ or so from the ground). Classic, despite its green appearance.
PaTina Turner
8b
(V13)
0
0
The sit-start to Handy Andy's.
5
(V1)
2
1
2
Another excellent arete.
Andy Brown's Wall
7b
(V8)
4
13
7
In the middle of the smooth wall to the right is a poor layway. Reach this and jump to the top. Another classic.
?
(V?)
0
0
The right edge of the wall without any holds right of the crack. Often damp.
Topo
The Flakes
The boulder directly below the Blind Pew has only four problems but they're all classic - and hard.
6c+
(V5)
1
7
3
Climb the undercut wall left of the arete via a poor sloping crimp.
The Gimp
7a+
(V7)
1
5
3
A superb problem up the left side of the arete.
7b+
(V8/9)
0
0
The right side of the Gimp arete.
The Flakes
7b
(V8)
1
5
4
Start up the ramp on the front face of the boulder, then lunge left to a good edge. Yet another classic!
Twelve Bore
8a+
(V12)
1
0
The line of thin flakes to the right of Lager Lager Lager.
Topo
The John Dunne Slap
This buttress is a bit too big really, but the John Dunne Slap is well worth doing, as are Ron's Slab and Arete if you like that kind of thing.
Ron's Slab
7a
(V6)
2
1
The centre of the big slab.
Ron's Arete
7a
(V6)
3
5
3
The arete of the slab, moving left at the top. High and scary.
5+
(V2)
1
0
The groove. Really there's no need to climb things like this.
Unnamed Buttress
The next buttress right of John Dunne Slap.
Unnamed Buttress
Right again is this buttress which has one good, high problem.
5+
(V2)
4
2
0
The obvious line on the buttress has good climbing and a long reach, and a high top-out.
Topo
Australia Roof
Further along the hillside is a long, low roof.
Australia Roof
6b
(V4)
2
5
3
The centre of the roof. Superb climbing, but be careful of the loose starting holds.
6c
(V5)
2
1
2
The little hanging arete.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The right wall of the roof from a sit start.
Unnamed Buttress
The small buttress right of Australia Roof has one good problem.
5
(V1)
1
2
0
Tricky moves up centre of the buttress.
Blind Pew
A small boulder directly above The Flakes.
Blind Pew
6c+
(V5)
2
3
1
The short undercut arete. Tricky!
5+
(V2)
1
0
The centre of the wall to the right, from a sit start. Looks desperate to me.
Topo
Pinnacle Slab
Near Wainman's Pinnacle is this slab.
?
(V?)
3
1
1
Small bulge up and left of the slab.
4
(V0)
0
0
The centre of the slab past a pocket.
4
(V0)
1
0
0
The blunt rib.
Topo
Pinnacle Wall
A steep wall directly beneath the pinnacle.
4
(V0)
0
0
The slab left of the wall.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The groove at the left side of the wall.
?
(V?)
0
0
The right arete of the groove.
7a
(V6)
1
2
1
Traverse an obvious break from right to left.
Topo
Underpants
An impressive, undercut and gently overhanging wall with some hard problems.
Ape Index
7a
(V6)
0
0
Climb directly up the wall above the ledge. Very height-dependent.
Underworld
7c+
(V10)
2
2
3
The obvious right-trending ramp line.
Underpants
7b+
(V8/9)
4
7
The right arete of the wall. Dynamic and superb.
Topo
Hanging Arete
Further down the hillside this isolated block has an interesting arete problem.
4
(V0)
0
0
The easy left arete of the steepest side of the boulder.
Hanging Arete
6c+
(V5)
2
9
5
The excellent hanging arete.
3
(V0-)
2
0
0
The scoop to the right. Nice.
Topo
Big Block
The next isolated block is quite high. Good landings, but not the best bouldering.
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
The steep wall and left side of the arete.
4
(V0)
0
0
The left side of the slabby wall.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The right side of the wall.
5+
(V2)
1
0
1
The right arete of the wall, climbed on the slabby left side via an excellent balancey move.
4
(V0)
1
0
1
The flake right of the arete, with a big rockover move at the top. Good.
The Quarry
Beyond Isolated Pinnacle is a small quarry.
Gaston
7a
(V6)
0
0
On the left wall on entering the quarry. Climb the wall just right of the left arete above a nasty boulder.
Topo
Wyatt Earp Wall
Small boulder just past the quarry.
Doc Holiday
6c
(V5)
0
0
Use rounded hold on the arete to gain the scoop to the left.
Colt 45
7c
(V9)
0
0
Right side of the arete from a sit-start.
OK Corral
6a+
(V3)
0
0
Topo
Red Ant Rock
Thirty metres beyond Wyatt Wall.
Red Ants
5
(V1)
0
0
Sit-start. Use the niche arete and wall.
More Red Ants
5+
(V2)
0
0
Sit-start. Up the arete only.
Ouch
5
(V1)
0
0
Sit-start. Up right side of arete stepping on to the slab.
Topo
West Wall
Near the top of a diagonal path.
Make the Effort
5
(V1)
0
0
Climb west wall using the arete.
Topo
Wee Little Wall
Near the top of a diagonal path.
Stretch Arete
5+
(V2)
0
0
Sit-start. Use arete and large flatty on the wall.
Miss Crimpy
5+
(V2)
0
0
Sit-start. Use the large flatty and crimps in the wall only.
Mr Crimpy
6a
(V3)
0
0
Sit-start. Reach up to small crimps right of the large flatty.
Throw Up
5+
(V2)
0
0
Sit-start. Use large flatty to the right only to dynamically reach up and left.
Topo
Nosey Wall
Halfway up the diagonal path.
Slotty Nose
5+
(V2)
0
0
Sit-start. Use the slots and the nose.
Slot2hard
6a
(V3)
0
0
Sit-start. Use only the slots and flakes.
Topo
High Slab
Right of a large quarry.
Rock Over
5+
(V2)
0
0
Up the centre of the slab via a crack, from a sit-start.
Topo
Cobalt Blue
Follow the path down the moor side through two gates. This boulder is up on the moor on the left.
Nearly Knackered
5+
(V2)
0
0
Up the right arete of the overhanging front wall from a sit-start. No hands out left to finish.
Knackered Now
6b
(V4)
0
0
As for problem Nearly Knackered to the boss but reach out horizontally left to the left arete to finish on the left wall.
Totally Knackered
6c+
(V5)
2
1
0
Sit-start using the right arete and the low hole to reach the small flake on the wall. Then move diagonally left to the left arete to finish.
I'm Off Home
5+
(V2)
0
0
Climb the left arete,
