More commonly known amongst climbers as Crookstones, this collection of boulders lies on the edge of Barden Moor midway between Rylstone Cross and Crookrise Crag Top, overlooking Waterfall Gill. Only recently discovered by boulderers, there are plenty of problems to go at, some of which are classic. The rock can be a bit gritty in places, but is becoming cleaner as the crag receives more traffic. Being a long walk from the road the boulders are usual quiet, and in any case the boulders are well spread-out across the hillside, so solitude is usually guaranteed. The crag faces northwest, and can be very slow to dry, particularly in winter when it receives little, if any, sun. In summer and autumn the hillside is covered in bracken, but this is less of a problem than might be imagined.
The Scenery
The crag is set in a beautiful location on the edge of Barden Moor.
The Scenery
5
0
Topo
Overview
The crag consists of a broken edge, with a chaotic jumble of boulders on the hillside below, and another much smaller group of boulders beyond the right-hand end of the edge.
The right-hand group is described first, then the main edge from right to left, and finally the boulder field from top to bottom.
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The Stone Brush
There are some excellent problems on this small group of boulders. The highlights are the undercut slab and arete of The Stone Brush, the baffling Greg's Wall, Jerry's Traverse and the recently-climbed project on the first boulder.
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Project Boulder
At the right end of the crag a big boulder has an impressive problem.
7a
(V6)
0
0
The centre of the boulder past a pocket, with a big dyno for the sloping top.
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Overhanging Crack
The overhanging front face of this boulder has a couple of superb problems.
Overhanging Crack
6b+
(V4)
2
1
0
The crack looks gruesome but is actually superb. Jamming can be avoided!
Jerry's Traverse
7a+
(V7)
2
2
0
The superb left to right traverse, with an excellent slappy finish.
7a+
(V7)
0
0
The right arete.
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The Edge
Further along the boulders become bigger and form a mini edge that runs for several hundred meters. The first section (area 5) has several striking aretes; above this is a big roof, and a few more broken buttresses (area 6). Further along there is an isolated boulder in front of an overhanging wall (area 7), and beyond this at the end of the edge, a small overhanging prow (area 8)
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Twin Aretes
Between the Aretes and the Right-Hand Group, two boulders, one above the other, have a couple of worthwhile arete problems.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The arete of the lower boulder, climbed on the right. Excellent, with an awkward finish.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The arete on the higher boulder.
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The Aretes
An impressive area of walls and aretes, some of which are high enough to be called routes.
Greg's Arete
E2 5c
0
The big arete on its left side.
Roy's Arete
E4 6a
0
The arete on its right.
Original Arete
5
(V1)
1
1
Looks good, but the climbing is slightly disappointing.
Accinez
6c
(V5)
0
0
The wall right of the arete past two pockets.
Donna's Arete
4
(V0)
0
0
Another one of those scary aretes.
6b
(V4)
0
0
The steep slab right of the arete.
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Above the Aretes
The edge above the aretes has a few aretes and walls, and a huge roof.
Crouchend Traverse
6b
(V4)
1
1
0
Traverse the break in the big roof from left to right.
6a
(V3)
0
0
Climb the arete in the recess left of the roof. Dirty.
Rad's Wall
6a+
(V3)
1
0
The wall in the next recess to the left. Reachy and slappy.
4
(V0)
0
0
The arete of the recess is scary with a bad landing.
4
(V0)
0
0
The arete further left is also scary.
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The Pinnacle
At the same level as the previous area but further left (looking in) is large pinnacle in front of a dark overhanging wall.
Christian's Dyno
6b+
(V4)
2
0
The left-hand side of the high wall in the recess. The crux is a superb dyno for a sharp-edged hold. The top is dirty and high and best avoided.
The High Ball
6c
(V5)
0
0
The right side of the wall, over the roof to a commiting finish.
The Bullworker
6b
(V4)
2
0
The triangular front face of the pinnacle using both aretes. Superb.
Enty's Arete
5+
(V2)
2
0
0
The left arete of the pinnacle, climbed on the left.
4
(V0)
0
0
The short arete.
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The Prow
Further along the hillside the edge peters out at an overhanging wall.
Ellie
6b
(V4)
0
0
The left-hand arete is excellent.
Dave's Rib
6a
(V3)
0
0
The right-hand arete.
Ellie's Traverse
7a+
(V7)
0
0
Start at Dave's Rib and use the pockets to traverse left to finish up Ellie.
5
(V1)
0
0
The slabby wall opposite the prow on horrible sharp rock.
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The Boulder Field
Below the main edge there are numerous boulders scattered about the hillside.
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Overhanging Arete
Just below the main edge this boulder has a nice slabby arete. The overhanging arete on the giant perched block above is a 'last great problem'.
5+
(V2)
0
0
Climb the arete on its right. Excellent.
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The Cave
Directly below the big Aretes (area 5) this boulder has a slab with a small cave to its right.
4
(V0)
0
0
The green slab.
7a
(V6)
0
0
From a sit start in the cave, pull over the bulge onto the slab.
This large, flat-topped boulder has a prominent sharp hanging arete.
The Fin
5+
(V2)
2
3
1
Climb the sharp arete on its left. Tricky!
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
This problem climbs the ramp in the smooth wall left of the arete from a sit start.
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Big Slab
A slab on a large boulder, and a smaller boulder beside it with a slabby rib.
4
(V0)
0
0
The cracks in the right-hand side of the big slab.
6b
(V4)
1
0
0
The blunt rib. Good but spoilt by a gritty finish.
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Deer Snare Slab
This boulder has a slabby front face with some delicate problems.
Deer Snare Slab
6a+
(V3)
4
0
A superb slab problem left of the vague scoop. Probably harder now since the loss of a pebble.
?
(V?)
0
0
The scoop is as yet unclimbed.
Rad's Rib
6b
(V4)
0
0
The rib right of the scoop, aiming for a pocket high up.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The undercut arete from a sit start, using a pocket out right.
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Groovyrockover
Several boulders next to each other make up this area. The right-hand boulder has a sharp arete and groove. The left-hand boulder is long and low with a slabby front face.
Groovyrockover
5
(V1)
0
0
Start on the arete and rockover onto a ledge. The direct up the groove and arete is dirty and unclimbed.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The arete to the left.
6a
(V3)
0
0
A left to right traverse on the small middle boulder.
Project
?
(V?)
0
0
Climb the short arete at the back of the left-hand boulder from a sit start.
Project
?
(V?)
0
0
Traverse the sloping lip of the left-hand boulder.
7a
(V6)
0
0
Climb the centre of the slabby wall via a sloping layaway.
Roy's Mantel
7a
(V6)
0
0
A desperate mantel/rockover over the bulge.
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The Blob
A large blob-shaped boulder with a slabby front face.
Belly Flop Arete
5+
(V2)
0
0
The left arete of the front face, starting right of the block.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The line of flakes on the right side of the slab.
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Undercut Slab
This boulder has a small undercut slab.
Big D
5+
(V2)
0
0
Start on the arete, rockover onto a smear on the slab and slap for the top. Excellent.
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Green Slabs
Two easy-angled slabs, rather green and unpleasant.
Geordie Overhang
5
(V1)
0
0
The lower slab.
4
(V0)
0
0
The left side of the upper slab.
4
(V0)
0
0
The right side of the upper slab.
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Hang the Boss
This enormous boulder has a classic sloper problem.
6b
(V4)
1
0
The left arete of the blank wall, from a sit start. Probably much easier for the tall.
Hang The Boss
6b
(V4)
5
10
2
A classic problem right of the blank wall. From the crack, reach and hang the big sloper, moving left and up to finish.
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Dogfight Boulder
The boulder closest to the stream has a clean vertical wall with an excellent traverse.
5
(V1)
0
0
The right arete, climbed on its left.
4
(V0)
0
0
The centre of the wall.
Dogfight Traverse
6c
(V5)
2
1
0
Traverse the obvious line of holds from left to right, finishing up the arete.
The Shark Boulder
On the opposite side of the stream to the other boulders is a prominent overhanging prow.
Hammerhead
7a
(V6)
1
0
0
The prow from a sit start is good.
Great White
7b
(V8)
1
0
0
The overhang to the right of Hammerhead from a sit start. Superb.
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