Ilkley is one of the more well known crags of Yorkshire. Home to some famous routes such as Wellington Crack (E4) and The New Statesman (E8), it also has a lot to offer the boulderer. Most of the best problems are found in and around the quarry, while the overhanging face of the Calf is great if you can climb hard enough! The vertical walls around First Arete also hold a few good problems.
There is more bouldering a short walk away at Rocky Valley
Topo
The Pub Quarry
A quarried bay five hundred metres up the hillside from the Cow and Calf pub. It can be reached from the main car park Cow and Calf crags by walking up left from the Doris buttress for about a kilometre, or more easily from the lay-by opposite the pub (from where it is clearly visible). All four problems here are excellent.
The Quarry
With a couple of exceptions the climbing in the quarry is nothing special. The rock is polished and it always seems to be cold and windy.
Into the Great Wide Open
E4 5c
1
9
A bold micro-route taking the wall and rib left of Propeller Wall. Take an airy step onto the arete. Using a sloper and the arete make a tricky move to get higher and eventually gain better finishing holds.
Earwig Rib
6a
(V3)
1
1
2
The right bounding arete of the Short Circuit slab gives a nice technical problem.
The Cow
An area of scattered boulders on the side of the hill between the mouth of the quarry and the Cow.
5
(V1)
1
0
0
The left-hand side of the big slab left of the Ron's Traverse boulder.
Topo
The Calf
This massive boulder has a variety of climbing, with the best being on the overhanging face overlooking the town.
Superset
7c
(V9)
3
3
A nasty chipped problem up to, and up, the hanging crack on the wall facing the car park.
Car Park Crack
5
(V1)
0
0
The nasty crack crack further right.
?
(V?)
0
0
Follow the right-slanting crackline to a big flake and high finish.
7a+
(V7)
0
0
From the ledge at the left side of the face, follow layaways and undercuts up right to the middle of the face, and jump off.
6c
(V5)
2
5
2
Climb to the prominent jug in the centre of the wall, from a sit start on an undercut. Good.
Bernie the Bolt
?
(V?)
0
0
Reach the jug, the head up left to the creaking flake and the top.
6c
(V5)
1
0
0
The right side of the overhanging wall, beside the groove.
Gnome
E2
0
The groove at the left end of the overhanging wall.
Pebble Groove
HVS
0
The left-slanting crack on the slab.
The Ring
5
(V1)
0
1
Ringpiece climbed from a standing start at the ring hold.
Traverses and Links
Almost Pleasant
6c
(V5)
2
0
0
Traverse left from good holds right of the ledge, finishing at the jug at the top of Classic Dyno (the dyno being optional).
The Calf Traverse
7b+
(V8/9)
3
2
The traverse of the overhanging face at mid-height, starting from jams at the left end and finishing down the groove on the right-hand side.
7c+
(V10)
0
0
The low-level, left-to-right traverse.
Ian's Roof
Further on from the Calf is a large boulder with a big horizontal roof.
Nice and Frictious
7a+
(V7)
2
2
2
From the back of the roof, reach the lip and traverse left to a mantel finish.
Bouling Farre Arete
7c
(V9)
3
2
2
The arete next to the chiselled writing from a sit start.
Topo
Lost Boots Area
This long wall is mostly vertical and has some good problems and short routes. Many of the problems described have high finishes; these can be sensibly avoided by down-climbing or jumping off from the big break at half-height.
Lost Boots
4+
(V0)
0
0
The left side of the wall, on chipped holds.
?
(V?)
0
0
The vague rib.
5
(V1)
0
0
Climb up to, and up, the hanging layback crack.
4
(V0)
0
0
A line of chipped holds right of the crack.
Little Hole
7a
(V6)
0
0
From the little hole move up and right.
Big Hole
5
(V1)
0
0
The line past the big hole.
First Arete
7a+
(V7)
9
6
Steep and fingery, the obvious overhanging arete is a classic.
Curious Yellow
7c+
(V10)
2
5
3
The impressive blank wall. Tricky moves lead past an undercut and a poor crimp.
Curious Yellow Right-Hand
7c+
(V10)
0
0
Climb into the undercut from the right.
Traverses and Links
7a+
(V7)
0
0
A nice traverse finishing with a big move to the jug. There are numerous other variations hereabouts.
Unnamed Boulder
This low boulder lies on the grassy plateau above the Cow.
6c
(V5)
2
2
4
Traverse the boulder from right to left using slopers just below the top.
Olicana Wall
A long, low wall further along the hillside, beyond Lost Boots.
The Back Quarry
Above the Olicana Wall and Lost Boots area is a wide, shallow quarry with a clean, south-facing quarried wall. There are several good problems here. People have been bouldering here for years, but the area hasn't been documented until now.
Boulder Step-Off
3
(V0-)
0
0
Climb the block and step off it to finish. It can be made easier by starting on the block.
5
(V1)
0
0
Ripples to quarried flakes beside the block.
5+
(V2)
0
0
As for problem 2, but avoid the big ledge by a long reach to the right. A stricter eliminate uses only the small layaway edges at 6a - easier with right or left footholds.
?
(V?)
0
0
Up the scoop, then straight up.
Ilkley Bar Kid
6b
(V4)
4
5
1
Technical moves up the scoop to layaways, then left to the chipped jug. Finish direct.
Steven Seagal
6c
(V5)
2
1
Hard moves or a jump lead to the hold on the lip. Sort your feet out and grab the chipped jug on the left. Finish direct. A truly direct version would be even harder.
Low Crosser
6b
(V4)
0
0
Traverse left from the right arête to the chipped jug. Finish straight up.
Right Face
6a
(V3)
0
0
Use polished holds and the chipped arête to make a committing move to the ramp.
High Crosser
6a
(V3)
0
0
The same initial moves as 8, then make a delicate traverse left from the ramp to the ledge on the left. Feels like a route.
Big Crack
5
(V1)
0
0
Use the crack to gain the ramp on the left.
Chuck Norris
7a+
(V7)
0
0
Use flakes and undercuts.
Next Crack
5
(V1)
0
0
Layback to a grotty finish. Can also be done by bridging on chips at the same grade.
Big Flake Wall
4
(V0)
0
0
The centre crack of the side wall.
Arete Left
5
(V1)
0
0
Including the holds on the left wall.
Arete Right
5+
(V2)
0
0
Wobble up using an undercut and the edge. Harder for the short.
Blue Cock Wall
5+
(V2)
1
1
Make a difficult move to stand on the rock scar. Use the chips.
Chips Today
5+
(V2)
1
1
Chips and crimps straight up the wall above the undercut.
Chips Arete
5
(V1)
0
0
The chipped arête on the slab side. Harder than it looks.
Overhanging Arete
6a
(V3)
0
0
A strict eliminate using holds near the arête to the ledge.
5+
(V2)
1
1
The overhanging wall eliminating the right arête - superb.
New Year Arete
4
(V0)
2
0
0
Climb the overhanging end wall using everything.
Green Wall
3
(V0-)
0
0
Up the stepped wall to the left.
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