Lord's Seat is a small grit outcrop on Barden Fell, 400 yards east of the more well known Simon's Seat. It offers some superb bouldering away from the crowds in a wild moorland setting. Landings are generally good, and there is a good mix of climbing with lots of roof problems, the occasional slab, crack and arete, and a few highballs. There is also a fair amount of easy soloing.
There are three main areas, all of which have good climbing. The most extensive area is the south face of the main summit of Lord's Seat, which consists of two distinct tiers. The north face is smaller but has three good buttresses. The third area is Wall Buttress, slightly further east than the Lord's Seat itself and separated from it by a stone wall.
Topo
The South Face
The south side of Lord's Seat consists of two distinct tiers. The lower tier is comprised of a series of separate boulders, amongst which are found several good roof and slab problems. The buttresses of the upper tier tend to be larger and of less interest to boulderers.
The problems are described from left to right on the lower tier (looking in), then right to left on the upper tier.
Topo
The Jumble
An excellent area, consisting of a jumble of small boulders, with several good arete and crack problems.
5+
(V2)
0
0
Climb the nose from a very awkward sit start.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The arete in the gully, climbed on its right side. Bad landing.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The right arete of the recess has nice climbing.
Ripple Wall
3
(V0-)
1
0
0
The rippled wall is even better. Delicate and high.
5
(V1)
1
0
1
On the next block, climb the precarious steep slab next to the arete.
5
(V1)
1
0
2
The left side of the arete has excellent delicate climbing. Feels high, but the landing is good.
5
(V1)
1
0
1
The right side of the arete.
3
(V0-)
1
0
1
The crack, with nice easy laybacking.
5+
(V2)
3
3
2
The arete right of the crack is good.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The right side of the arete, from a sit start is tricky.
6a
(V3)
0
1
The wall right of the arete from a sit start is well worthwhile.
Topo
Small Roof
A small isolated boulder with a roof at mid-height, and two good problems.
5+
(V2)
1
3
0
Starting with left hand on a good layaway below the left edge of the roof, reach for the lip and finish up the next problem.
6b
(V4)
3
4
1
From a sit start at the right end of the roof, pull up to the lip and traverse all the way left to finish with a rockover onto the slab. Nice.
Topo
Big Roof
The next boulder has a much bigger roof, which has an excellent strenuous traverse.
Big Kicks
7c
(V9)
4
7
2
The left-hand side of the big roof by a wild dyno.
6c
(V5)
2
0
1
Traverse the lip of the roof from right to left with a hard move where the roof widens.
6b
(V4)
1
1
Climb the roof on its right side from a sit start at a low jug, past a flake to a mantel finish.
Topo
Pocket Wall
This much bigger boulder at the far right of the lower tier has a steep and high front face, while the boulder beside it is smaller and has some good slab climbing.
Larkin's Right
4
(V0)
0
0
Layback the obvious crack in the steep wall to reach a sloping break, then continue to the top if you're brave enough. High.
Pocket Wall
3
(V0-)
0
0
The line of pockets up the left side of the slabby boulder.
3
(V0-)
3
1
1
Start up the pockets but then traverse right to finish up the arete.
5
(V1)
1
2
1
Lunge for the good hold on the right arete and continue to the top.
6a
(V3)
0
0
The narrow pebbly slab right of the arete.
Eliminates and Variations
6b
(V4)
1
2
1
An eliminate up the centre of the slab without any of the big pockets.
Topo
Lone Arete
At the extreme right end of the upper tier is a small arete.
4
(V0)
0
0
The arete on its right, moving left round the arete at the top.
4
(V0)
1
0
0
The left side of the arete.
5
(V1)
1
0
Climb the short wall left of the arete. Suprisingly, easier than the arete.
Topo
The Slab
This big, easy angled slab has good climbing in the lower grades.
4
(V0)
1
0
0
The slim buttress left of the slab - the main interest comes from the sit start.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The left bounding corner of the slab.
3
(V0-)
1
0
0
The centre of the slab.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The right edge of the slab is much the same.
Topo
The Buttress
The big buttresses in the centre of the crag have little of interest to the boulderer. However a big roof further left has two quality problems, including one of Yorkshire's classic dynoes. Left again is a small nose, and further left a steep wall in a gully.
5
(V1)
1
1
1
Follow the handrail on the right side of the roof to the apex and finish straight up.
The Roof Dyno
6b
(V4)
6
10
4
A superb dyno on the huge roof. From a flake in the centre, jump leftwards to catch a jug on the lip. Wild!
Gorgeous Geordies
7a
(V6)
0
1
From a sit start, climb the nose, moving left on slopers to a final rockover. Alternatively move right to finish (6b+).
5+
(V2)
0
0
The reachy wall in the gully.
The North Face
The boulders on the north side are described from right to left (looking in to the crag).
Topo
Pebble Arete
Towards the right side of the north face is a short pebbly arete.
5
(V1)
0
0
Climb the hanging arete.
Topo
Overhang Buttress
This is the big overhanging buttress in the centre of the north face, with a slim undercut slab to its right.
4
(V0)
0
0
The long slab has a tricky start followed by nice easy padding.
5
(V1)
1
0
0
From a sit-start under the roof, climb the right edge of the roof on huge holds. Excellent.
5+
(V2)
0
0
Start as for the previous problem but move left to finish up the wide crack.
6a
(V3)
0
0
As for the previous problem to the crack, then finish on the left.
Ironside
7c
(V9)
1
0
The obvious low level, left-to-right traverse on small sharp crimps.
Topo
Bottomless Arete
Further left is another seriously steep buttress.
Maverick Mick
6b
(V4)
1
0
The undercut right arete of the buttress has fantastic, athletic climbing.
Yorker
6b
(V4)
0
0
Climbs the wall left of the arete. From the sloping break pull directly over the roof.
Topo
Pocket Wall
At the left edge of the north face a bulging wall has two more excellent problems. The arete on the boulder to the right is less interesting.
6b
(V4)
1
0
Starting with both hands in the low, poor pocket, a tricky rockover gains the next pocket. Use another pocket up and right to finish direct.
6b
(V4)
1
1
2
Start with left hand in the low pocket, right hand on the arete, slap for another pocket and finish direct.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The left side of the arete on unpleasantly sharp, pebbly rock.
5
(V1)
0
0
The right side of the arete isn't quite as sharp.
Wall Buttress
This is the obvious rocky tor over the wall from the main crag. On the front the rocks form a small bay facing the main crag - there is some excellent climbing here, much of which is quite high, although the landings are generally grassy and good. A series of smaller buttresses runs along the wall, providing numerous easy problems which aren't documented here. Over the back another two boulders have more good climbing.
Topo
Front Bay
This area has numerous cracks and aretes above generally good landings, although most of the problems are quite high and scary.
McNab
7b
(V8)
4
8
3
The blunt, overhanging nose on the left side of the bay is a classic. Best with a sit-start at 7b+.
Deep Black
7a
(V6)
0
0
Climb the prow just right of McNab, starting on the arete and finishing up the left edge of the slab.
6b
(V4)
2
1
0
The slabby side of the overhanging nose. From a small ledge move left round the edge to a hard (and reachy) finish.
5+
(V2)
0
0
The centre of the slab to the right, starting from the small ledge.
Pure Gold
5
(V1)
1
0
The left-hand of two overhanging cracks. Ugh.
The Uncertainty Principle
8a+
(V12)
0
0
Break out right from the start of Pure Gold to climb the big bulge.
Petrocelli
6c
(V5)
1
0
The bottomless crack and arete.
Stepping Up
4
(V0)
3
0
0
Start up the flake crack then move left onto the arete. High.
7a
(V6)
3
0
The shallow groove starting from the block.
Groovy Baby
5
(V1)
1
0
0
Layback the fine corner crack.
Topo
Pocket Block
This is the free standing boulder over the back of the outcrop from the Front Bay area.
Fascinating Pockets
5
(V1)
0
0
Link the obvious pockets in the front face.
5
(V1)
0
0
Climb the green slab left of the first problem on pebbles and slopers - good climbing.
3
(V0-)
0
0
An easy layback crack.
5+
(V2)
0
1
Use the layback crack to reach the big pocket on the left wall. Finish direct.
5
(V1)
0
0
The slim groove to the left is suprisingly tricky.
Topo
Overhang Block
A small undercut boulder with a couple of roof problems.
6b
(V4)
0
0
Traverse the lip of the overhang from right to left.
6a
(V3)
1
0
0
Sit start in the centre of the roof, reach up to the lip and traverse left.
