A good selection of problems and micro-routes on a popular Ilkley Moor footpath, near Swastika Stones.
Approach: Start as for Swastika Stones/High Crag. Continue along the footpath (the Millennium Way) until the crag can be seen jutting out of the hillside just below the path. If you reach a silver gate you?ve gone too far.
The East Face
Bring A Brush
5
(V1)
0
0
Easy until the flat top is reached.
Pinch
6a
(V3)
0
0
Attach yourself to the headwall (a high small hold and a low undercut) and slap the shelf. Hold it together for the top.
Lunge
5
(V1)
0
0
The wall without the arete. A long move for the top.
Piper's Arete
4
(V0)
0
0
The arete on its left side.
Easy Traverse
3
(V0-)
0
0
Traverse right-to-left from arete to arete.
The West Face
Here the bouldering blends into soloing teritory.
Bogey Arete
5
(V1)
0
0
A direct line with a tricky move to get established on the nose; short and safe if cams are used. HVS 5b.
Church Parade
5
(V1)
0
0
Traverse the obvious break to finish as for Piper?s Arete.
Champions Once Moor
6b
(V4)
5
0
0
Link the slopers up the centre of the wall. High but the landing is decent. E2 6a.
The Legion
E2 5c
0
A direct line past the overlap to the left hand dish. Using the central small flat hold to gain the next break is the crux. E2 5c.
Gallant Men
E1 5b
0
Pull up from the arete to the same flat hold. Finish via the right dish. Nasty landing.
Shepherd's Refuge
The undercut boulder behind the main crag. Come on a showery day for the full experience.
Popper
5+
(V2)
0
0
Sit start. Get established on the face and pop for the top. Short but satisfying.
No Harder
5+
(V2)
0
0
Make the easy traverse along the back of the cave, assume the position and repeat Popper.
