« Ilkley Buckstones : Lord's Seat »
Home » Crags » Ilkley Rocky Valley

Rocky Valley is a shallow valley on the edge of Ilkley Moor, a few minutes walk from the more well known Cow and Calf crags. There is a small grit edge here with plenty of good routes, with a scattering of boulders below it; the main area is at the far right-hand end of the crag. The bouldering hasn't received much publicity, but the area has been reinvestigated recently and some good problems found.

The Left-Hand Area; Below the Path

A small collection of boulders near a plantation below the path.
Thunderlips; The Ultimate Male 7b (V8)   2 photos 2 4 comments 4 1 vote 1
The Italian Stallion 7b+ (V8/9)   1 photo 1 1 comment 1 3 votes 3
On a boulder just above the plantation, start on two undercuts with feet at the back of the cave.
Ivan Drago 7b (V8)   1 photo 1 0 comments 0 0 votes 0
In a bay on the east side of the plantation.

The Left-Hand Area; Above the Path

Roof Problem 7a (V6)   2 photos 2 0 comments 0 0 votes 0
Clubber Lang 7b (V8)   1 photo 1 0 comments 0 1 vote 1

Expand Main Area

The main area is a collection of boulders on the hillside below the path, below and slightly beyond the right-most buttress of the crag above. The boulders are described from top to bottom.
A Crimson Tear 7c+ (V10)   2 photos 2 3 comments 3 0 votes 0
Above the path is a small boulder with a smooth overhanging wall. Use a mono to jump for a hole and finish left.
Sweet Dreams 8a (V11)   5 photos 5 10 comments 10 6 votes 6
The wall right of A Crimson Tear, from a sit-start. 7b from standing.
Energy Follows Thought 7b+ (V8/9)   3 photos 3 10 comments 10 1 vote 1
Below the path is a small boulder with a overhanging wall facing up the hill. Climb the scoop direct to a sloper from a sit-start.
Work Around The Skirt 7a (V6)   1 photo 1 0 comments 0 0 votes 0
The uphill traverse on a huge boulder slightly further down. Start at a sidepull at the lowest point, finish at the upper arete. Superb.
A Carnivore Roaming 7b (V8)   1 photo 1 1 comment 1 0 votes 0
The project "Sloping" mentioned in the bouldering guide. A superb left-to-right traverse, starting at the chip at the left corner and finishing onto the slab at the far right-hand end.
Beyond Borders 6c (V5)   1 photo 1 3 comments 3 2 votes 2
On the next large boulder below Carnivore Roaming. Climb the obvious overhanging arete, starting at the right-hand pinch, with a hard top-out.
Fa Kin Su Pah 6b (V4)   1 photo 1 2 comments 2 3 votes 3
Right of Beyond Borders, climb the left-slanting arete from a low start below the block.
6b (V4)   2 photos 2 0 comments 0 2 votes 2
Start as for Fa Kin, but climb direct over the block.
Frank 8a (V11)   2 photos 2 3 comments 3 0 votes 0
The impressive wall left of the arete of Polar Haze.