Rylstone is the name given to the long broken escarpment on the hillside above the village of Rylstone, some five miles north of Skipton. There is a lot of rock here, ranging from the large buttress beneath Rylstone Cross and the main crag nearby, to numerous small isolated boulders stretching along the edge of the moor to Cracoe Memorial. The boulders give some superb climbing. Roof problems abound, and there are plenty of more technical slabs and walls as well. Being a long way from the road, the boulders are usually deserted.
The Scenery
Rylstone is one of the most scenic Yorkshire grit crags, with fine views across Barden Moor, Wharfedale and the Malham hills.
The Boulders
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The boulders from the approach path.
The Crag
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The main crag from the moorland path past the boulders.
Topo
Overview
There is a huge amount of rock here. The first area reached from the approach is a small quarried buttress with the route High Flying Adored. Beyond this are three much larger buttresses which contain most of the long routes at Rylstone. Scattered around these buttresses are numerous smaller boulders, some of which have worthwhile bouldering. However the best bouldering area is the series of isolated boulders scatted across the moor beyond these crags.
High Flying Adored
A small buttress with a large roof in its upper half.
High Flying Adored
5
(V1)
2
1
1
An excellent highball problem. Climb up a rib to reach the right side of the roof, then traverse left on jugs until it's possible to rockover onto the top.
Topo
Solo Games
This area consists of several large boulders and buttresses. The left-most buttress has a blank undercut vertical wall, with a prominent short flake crack (For My Next Trick). Across the gully is a buttress two high, narrow slabs, and a large block further down the hillside. Finally, a gully further right has a worthwhile problem.
For My Next Trick
5
(V1)
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The vertical wall via the short has some interesting moves.
5
(V1)
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Climb the left side of the roof from a sit-start, finishing at the break.
5+
(V2)
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A similar problem just to the right.
6c
(V5)
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Traverse the lip of the roof from right to left.
Little Peach
E3
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The thin slab has a dodgy landing. A route rather than a boulder problem.
Diff
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The wide crack in the arete.
Solo Games
5+
(V2)
1
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The slab has a good landing but the crux is a long way up.
4
(V0)
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The right side of the arete on the lower boulder has nice climbing.
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(V?)
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The flake crack in the gully to the right.
Topo
Moorland Boulder
This boulder lies on the moorland side of the wall. The central arete is excellent, and there are more good problems either side of it. Unfortunately the rock is a bit gritty and needs further cleaning, and the landing is usually flooded after extended periods of rain.
6a
(V3)
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The centre of the left wall of the arete via a thin crack.
5+
(V2)
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The left side of the arete, starting from directly beneath it.
5+
(V2)
1
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The right side of the arete, with the option of a sit-start. Excellent, with a tricky top.
5+
(V2)
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The wall just right of the arete - trickier than it looks.
3
(V0-)
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The vague right arete.
Topo
Distant Gem
This solitary buttress has a steep front face, split by a crack. It's a bit too big and broken to be of much interest.
Distant Gem
HVS
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The layback crack left of the chimney.
Topo
Bondi Beach
Further down the hillside from the previous area is this collection of boulders. There are some nice problems here, with plenty in the lower grades, and a couple of highball problems.
Bondi Beach
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(V?)
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The vertical arete is high.
Surfer's Paradise
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(V?)
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The superb slabby arete. High!
3
(V0-)
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The wide crack in the short slab.
5
(V1)
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The right arete of short slab.
5
(V1)
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Across the gully is this very short arete.
3
(V0-)
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The left side of the lower slab on rough, pebbly rock.
5
(V1)
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The highest part of the slab gives a good problem.
4
(V0)
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The right side of the slab is also good.
?
(V?)
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The pillar round the corner to the right. Needs cleaning.
5+
(V2)
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The arete is excellent.
4
(V0)
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The wide crack is better than it looks.
Topo
The Pinnacle
This big pinnacle is fairly obvious. It's most notable for the slab-padding problems on the front face, which feel quite scary despite a good landing. Descent from the top is via the steeper but short east side, and is not completely trivial!
Chalky Digits
7a
(V6)
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The narrow slab left of the big front face. The obvious line of pockets leads to a mantel finish.
4
(V0)
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The right side of the left arete.
?
(V?)
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The centre of the slab, via the hanging crack.
5+
(V2)
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The slabby side of the right arete is the best problem here - delicate and insecure.
7a
(V6)
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The right side of the arete.
5
(V1)
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And now for something different! The crack on the steep side of the boulder, from a sit start, with a mantel finish.
Topo
The Roof
This boulder just beyond the pinnacle has a big, jug-covered roof.
5+
(V2)
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The roof at its highest point from a sit start. Superb jug-hauling.
5
(V1)
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The wall just right of the roof is also nice.
5
(V1)
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Right of the deep crack is another roof - climb it direct.
Topo
Cocoa Team Special
This huge boulder is easily recognisable, with the hanging crack of Cocoa Team Special being an obvious challenge.
Cocoa Team Special
7c
(V9)
6
4
1
The hanging crack in the overhanging wall on the Rylstone Cross side of the boulder.
Project
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(V?)
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The big rounded arete has a few holds and might be possible.
Inner Reaches
7a+
(V7)
3
3
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The big steep east side of the boulder has a big crack. This problem climbs the right side of the arete.
Dirty Slapper
5
(V1)
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The opposite side of the boulder has a green slab. This problem climbs the right arete of the slab. Good but dirty.
Oh No The Wimmin Know!
5
(V1)
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The right side of the same arete.
Topo
The Outcrop
The next rocky outcrop is a short distance away. It's quite extensive, being quite high and broken in the centre, with smaller buttresses either side. The best bouldering is on the left-most buttress - undercut and split by a vertical crack, there are several problems with optional sit-starts, and scope for traverses. The central buttress is too high and broken to be of bouldering interest, apart from a short arete at the left end. Further right another undercut boulder may have some worthwhile bouldering, but is not detailed here.
5+
(V2)
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A good problem, climbing the wall left of the arete from a sit start via a round pocket.
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(V?)
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The right side of the arete, from a sit start.
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(V?)
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The centre of wall starting at a good hold in the break.
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(V?)
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The left arete of the crack.
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(V?)
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The right arete of the crack, from a sit start.
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(V?)
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The right side of the arete, from a sit start.
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(V?)
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At the left side of the bay is this short vertical arete with a bad landing.
5
(V1)
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Further right is a short arete, which gives a good problem from a sit start.
Topo
Poetry in Motion
The final area is on the moorland side of the wall, not far short of the War Memorial. An obvious clean high buttress of excellent rock, with superb climbing - the best at Rylstone.
5+
(V2)
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From a sit start climb the overhanging nose, finishing on the right.
Memorial Wall
4
(V0)
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The centre of the slabby wall with a tricky rockover at the top.
Ghostbuster
6b
(V4)
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The rib between the two buttresses.
Moorland Apparition
5
(V1)
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1
The left arete of the main buttress, with the assistance of the wide crack.
Ghost Road
6b
(V4)
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Using the right edge of the crack, climb the centre of the wall.
Poetry In Motion
6a
(V3)
4
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The superb arete, climbed on its left side.
Wordsworth Fail Me
6b
(V4)
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1
The arete on its right. It's possible to escape onto Poetry in Motion before the final tricky move.
The White Doe
6a
(V3)
3
5
2
The centre of the slab, with a long reach to an enormous pocket.
The Verge of Tranquillity
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(V?)
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The smooth slab between the arete and The White Doe.
Emily Norton
5
(V1)
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The superb right-hand arete.
