The valley of Scugdale lies at the west edge of the North York Moors. A series of sandstone buttresses lie on the edge of the moor on the north side of the valley, with some excellent short routes and limited bouldering.
Scot Crags
The jumble of buttresses above the parking area is a great area for short routes and extended boulder problems.
Tippling Wall
3
(V0-)
2
3
0
A nice micro route.
Humbug
7b
(V8)
1
0
1
Begin one metre right of arete, climbing past shallow pockets to a long reach to a good break followed by a character building top out.
The Shelf
E2 5c
1
9
A short route crossing a sloping shelf above a poor landing.
Chimney Eliminate
VS 4b
1
0
The narrow wall left of Scugdale Chimney.
5+
(V2)
1
1
2
The left-hand side of the shark's head boulder. Start at an obvious low jug and use a deep pocket out left, avoiding the lodged block.
6c
(V5)
1
7
5
On the free-standing shark's head boulder, traverse right to left below the lip from a sit start, using a shallow dish and topping out past a vertical crack
Barker's Crags
This is the collection of small boudlers and buttresses running east along the hillside beyond Scot Crags.
Pups' Wall
Severe
1
0
Pets' Corner
HS 4b
1
0
Fairytale Low
7a
(V6)
2
1
5
Take a sitting start from the shallow pockets pull up for the break (avoiding the arete), surmount the bulge and finish up top.
Scoop Wall
6a
(V3)
2
0
1
The highball, crimpy wall left of Mr Whippy.
Mr Whippy
6a
(V3)
1
0
0
The scoop without the aretes. Bold.
Super Skunk
6c
(V5)
1
7
3
Arch Rival
6a
(V3)
1
1
0
A short problem in the Arch Gully area.
Black Banned
6b
(V4)
1
16
4
The traverse of Black Wall, in either direction.
Finger Jam
6b
(V4)
1
3
0
The wall left of New Dimensions.
New Dimensions
E3 6a
1
9
A classic testpiece, climbing a steep crack to a tricky finish.
6b
(V4)
1
0
0
The wall right of New Dimensions via a mono and small pocket.
