Shipley Glen is a shallow wooded valley near Shipley in Bradford. It's not the most attractive bouldering venue in the world, but it does have some good problems. Much of the climbing is quite bold, and often fingery, although there are exceptions. The crag is described from left to right (looking in).
Low Block
A small boulder at the left-hand end of the edge.
God is Love
After Dog's Dinner Buttress for sixty meters follow the path that leads to Saltaire Road in Eldwick village, past two concrete bollards where there can be seen a boulder on the right with "God is Love" painted on its face and "Jesus Saves" painted on the opposite face. Behind "God is Love" boulder is Eldwick quarry.
Jesus Saves
5+
(V2)
0
0
Though undercuts and incut ledge.
Saves Direct
5+
(V2)
0
0
Undercuts and pocket to reach ledge.
God is Love Arete
5
(V1)
1
0
1
Right side climb arete.
God is Love Traverse
5
(V1)
1
2
0
From arete to break to finish around roof.
Sleeping Beauty
5
(V1)
1
2
0
At the two concrete bollards take a faint path down toward the Glen stream for 15 meters to a pointed upright leaning pinnacle slab surrounded by silver birch trees. This problem climbs the arete from right side to gain flake hold on face.
Unnamed Boulder
From God Is Love follow path up to concrete bollards, and then the path that runs along the crest of glen and after twenty five meters you overlook a boulder with a right angled corner, with a Silver Birch growing out of left wall. Follow a path downhill to this boulder. (If you continue to walk along the Glen you would reach Dog's Dinner Buttress in another twenty five meters).
Making Up
4
(V0)
1
0
0
Left wall.
Wicked Way
4
(V0)
1
0
0
Right wall using arete.
Christine's Horror
Dog's Dinner
4
(V0)
1
0
0
Good climbing up the narrow buttress.
Falcon
5
(V1)
1
0
0
The excellent wall has fingery moves to start ? welcome to The Glen.
Kestrel Crack
2
1
Big crack left of the arete.
Fowler
4+
(V0)
1
0
0
The tall arete climbed on the right is not one to be fallen off. More like HVS 5a.
Unnamed Boulder
Ten meters diagonally behind and right of Christine's Horror are two walls separated by a large holly tree
Hear the Hippies Festival?
2
(V0-)
0
0
The first, and left, wall.
Fingers in Each Others' Problems
4
(V0)
1
0
0
On the second wall past the holly tree, the left side of the wall.
Sharing Problems
4
(V0)
1
0
0
Right side of the wall.
Good Evans
Evans Above
6a+
(V3)
1
4
0
The wall just right of the arête has a hard undercut start. Easier for the 8a climber.
Good Evans
1
0
Centre of the wall.
Vicki
3+
1
0
Take wall and avoid use of square incut and shelf to take top and side pull on right.
Unnamed Boulder
Over the stream on the other side of the valley, at about the same level as Double D.
OMG
?
(V?)
1
0
0
Sit-start with left hand on crimp on arete, right hand on crimp under roof and feet on plinth. Trendg rightwards to finish with a "OMG" move.
Unnamed Boulder
From Dog's Dinner follow the path that runs along the crest of the glen and 30 meters before overlooking Foolâ??s Mirror, there is a gap between two sets of small quarried walls, with slight foot steps beneath an oak tree branch. Take this path downhill for 15 meters to a boulder 5 meters in length with a large roof spanning its length.
Leap of Faith
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
Left wall to gain arete, or use scoop further right for a long reach (5).
Seeds of Doubt
5+
(V2)
1
0
1
Right wall; use small ledge.
Katie
3
(V0-)
1
0
0
At the small quarried area on left side of, and at the same level as Fools Mirror itself, six metres left of Fox Hole. Quarried wall with block at top.
Fox Hole
5
(V1)
1
4
0
Out of cave to borehole and horn.
New Potato
From Fool's Mirror, twenty-five meters before YMC Wall can be seen the tops of a cluster of boulders forming half a ring round a central boulder with a roof.
New Potato
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
Centre of boulder using breaks.
Fool's Errand
3
(V0-)
1
0
0
Right arete.
Fool's Errand Traverse
5+
(V2)
1
1
0
Traverse from left arete to right along spaced breaks to finish up Foolâ??s Errand.
John Area
Grooved Arete
4
(V0)
1
0
1
Leaper Roof
Jug For A Thug
4
(V0)
0
0
The line of least resistance through the left side of the roof.
Leaper
5
(V1)
0
2
The juggy central line through the roof has an awkward final move.
Locals Come Down Here Too!
4+
(V0)
2
0
2
Left arete from sit-start.
Flying V
5
(V1)
1
0
0
At small overhanging triangular roof 1 metre left of Leaper Roof, take overhanging roof from left with feet and hands once launched.
Dirt
From glen arete follow the base of crag up the glen for sixty feet then drop diagonally down to a small boulder.
Barbeque Rib
Peatswall
4+
(V0)
1
0
0
Arete left of Squeeze Chimney.
Donner and Blitzen Area
Bonnie's Wall
5+
(V2)
1
1
0
An eliminate up the wall left of Adolph.
Adolph
6a
(V3)
1
6
0
The left right of the recess.
Donner
5+
(V2)
1
2
1
The undercut arete right of the recess.
Millstone Grit
7b
(V8)
2
7
3
The right side of the arete is a scary classic.
Blitzen
5+
(V2)
1
2
2
The right arete of the buttress.
Red Wall
Lurcher
5+
(V2)
0
0
Short wall past the left hand slot.
Lurch
6a
(V3)
1
7
2
The right-hand side of a short smooth wall past a slot.
Red Wall
5
(V1)
2
0
1
Small holds just left of the arete
Flake Wall
4
(V0)
0
0
Wall between the arete and corner.
Prow
5+
(V2)
0
0
The undercut prow from a sit start ? no bridging.
Nosey Parker Area
Ken's Arete
5
(V1)
1
0
0
The roof and arete at the left edge of the wall.
Nosey
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
The nose using both aretes is a terrifying adventure.
Monkey Business
7a
(V6)
4
11
2
On a boulder below a small slab. Traverse the lip from a sit-start on the left.
Wedding Present
4
(V0)
1
0
0
In the middle of the area set back is an isolated square faced boulder. Climb the short arete from sitting.
Unnamed Boulder
This boulder is hidden in the trees below the Red Baron area (below boulder 16 in the guide).
Longy's Traverse
7a
(V6)
2
1
3
Starts round the bottom corner at a fingerlock and traverse the steep face to finish in a crux mantle/rockover.
Wood's Wall
Beyond Red Baron the edge runs out, reappearing again close to the pub.
Manson's Must
6a
(V3)
3
2
2
The undercut left arete of the buttress.
Wood's Wall
5
(V1)
1
0
1
The short wall right of the arete.
6a
(V3)
1
1
0
Climb the right wall of the recess from a sit start.
The Phantom
Right of Wood's Wall.
Marshall Stack
5
(V1)
1
0
0
Left of Anne, up middle of wall not using the corner.
Anne
4+
(V0)
2
2
0
Leaning arete with triangular void and pincer grip nose above.
Naseem
4
(V0)
1
0
0
Right of Anne using mantle to go over right and over widest point of overhang.
Phantom Rib
6a
(V3)
1
1
7
The short hanging arete.
Kia-Ora Wall
Green Death
5
(V1)
1
0
0
A green wall at the left end of this area.
Interstellar Overdrive
6b
(V4)
1
2
0
A wall between two cracks further right.
Hand Me Down
E1 5c
4
5
Climb to the niche between Hammill's Horror and Austin's Hangover and continue direct up the thin wall above.
Chipped Hold Area
Pillar Rib
5
(V1)
1
4
0
A big arete.
Pillar Rock
5+
(V2)
2
2
0
Tiger Wall
Mouse Wall
6a+
(V3)
1
0
3
Black Roof
Bad Day at Black Roof
5+
(V2)
1
1
0
Pull up into right slot and with difficulty mantel to gain the top.
Far End
Ward's Eliminate
6a
(V3)
1
1
0
The center of the blank wall in a V-shaped recess.
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