Shipley Glen is a shallow wooded valley near Shipley in Bradford. It's not the most attractive bouldering venue in the world, but it does have some good problems. Much of the climbing is quite bold, and often fingery, although there are exceptions. The crag is described from left to right (looking in).
Low Block
A small boulder at the left-hand end of the edge.
YMC Wall
Glen Arete
3
(V0-)
1
2
1
The big arete.
Dirt
From glen arete follow the base of crag up the glen for sixty feet then drop diagonally down to a small boulder.
Donner and Blitzen Area
Bonnie's Wall
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
An eliminate up the wall left of Adolph.
Adolph
6a
(V3)
1
6
0
The left right of the recess.
Donner
5+
(V2)
1
1
0
The undercut arete right of the recess.
Millstone Grit
7c
(V9)
2
7
2
The right side of the arete is a scary classic.
Blitzen
5+
(V2)
1
2
2
The right arete of the buttress.
Red Wall
Lurch
5+
(V2)
1
6
1
The right-hand side of a short smooth wall past a slot.
Nosey Parker Area
Ken's Arete
5
(V1)
1
0
0
The roof and arete at the left edge of the wall.
Parker
7a+
(V7)
1
4
5
The undercut arete.
Monkey Business
7a
(V6)
4
10
0
On a boulder below a small slab. Traverse the lip from a sit-start on the left.
Red Baron Area
Red Baron is the classic of the crag - an obvious, massively undercut arete. The walls near by also have worthwhile climbing, though the problems are quite high and technical.
Daz
5+
(V2)
2
1
3
The big arete with a scary reach to the top.
Manson's Wall
6c
(V5)
1
12
5
The left-hand side of the smooth wall on tiny sloping crimps. A classic or a nightmare?
Phil's Wall
7a+
(V7)
3
0
2
The very thin wall just right of Manson's Wall.
Vim
5+
(V2)
3
7
4
The arete to the right is another scary classic.
Dead Baron
8a
(V11)
3
1
1
Start at a jug right of the arete, move out to the lip, then traverse left to finish up Red Baron. Avoid the block at the back of the roof.
Unnamed Boulder
This boulder is hidden in the trees below the Red Baron area (below boulder 16 in the guide).
Longy's Traverse
7a
(V6)
2
1
3
Starts round the bottom corner at a fingerlock and traverse the steep face to finish in a crux mantle/rockover.
Wood's Wall
Beyond Red Baron the edge runs out, reappearing again close to the pub.
Manson's Must
6a
(V3)
1
2
2
The undercut left arete of the buttress.
Wood's Wall
5
(V1)
1
0
1
The short wall right of the arete.
6a
(V3)
1
1
0
Climb the right wall of the recess from a sit start.
The Phantom
Right of Wood's Wall.
Phantom Rib
6a
(V3)
1
1
2
The short hanging arete.
Kia-Ora Wall
Green Death
5
(V1)
1
0
0
A green wall at the left end of this area.
Interstellar Overdrive
6b
(V4)
1
2
0
A wall between two cracks further right.
Hammill's Horror
E4 6a
2
1
2
A big, scary wall.
Hand Me Down
E1 5c
4
5
Climb to the niche between Hammill's Horror and Austin's Hangover and continue direct up the thin wall above.
Chipped Hold Area
Pillar Rib
5
(V1)
1
4
0
A big arete.
Pillar Rock
5+
(V2)
2
2
0
Far End
Ward's Eliminate
6a
(V3)
1
1
0
The center of the blank wall in a V-shaped recess.
