Sypeland is a fantastic crag in a superb position on the moors high above Nidderdale. There is some high quality bouldering here, but unfortunately much of the rock is dirty due to the lack of traffic the crag sees - take a stiff brush. The crag is documented in the guidebook 'Wild Bouldering in Yorkshire' by Tony Barley and Nigel Baker.
Jenny Twig
Two pinnacles stand are passed on the way to the main edge, known as Jenny Twig and her Daughter Tib. The jump between the two is quite entertaining.
Jump
1
0
Jump between the pinnacles if you dare.
The Shillings Boulder
Towards the left-hand side of the edge after crossing the wall there is a series of pinnacles.
Bounces
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
The sloping ramp-line right of the arete. Either jump off at the break or continue to a dirty, rounded finish. A sit-start is also good.
The Boss aka Loose Change
7a
(V6)
0
0
Start as for Bounces, then traverse left and climb up a hanging flake.
Piglet Pinnacle and Heffalump Tor
Just beyond the Shillings boulder is Heffalump Tor, the largest buttress at Sypeland, easily identifiable from its smooth front wall with a wide slanting crack on the right-hand side. Piglet Pinnacle is the smaller buttress further left.
Woozle Tor
This fine boulder has some of the best climbing at Sypeland.
Tracking Something
5
(V1)
1
0
Nice climbing on the big slab on the left side of the tor.
Breaking Out
6b
(V4)
2
4
0
The left side of the blunt arete with a superb dynamic crux.
Lacking in Smack
6a+
(V3)
2
6
0
Start on the left side of the arete, move round right on a sloper to a jug and a high finish.
Tigger's Tor
A free standing pinnacle in front of the main edge near Woozle Tor.
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
The blunt arete with a tricky start.
Tib's Tent
This massive isolated boulder has some fantastic highball problems. Described clockwise from the big slab on the front face.
No Loitering
5+
(V2)
1
1
0
Excellent climbing up the crack and arete on the steep face left of the big slab, but the top is dirty.
Jaw Crawler
7c+
(V10)
1
1
0
Traverse the lip of the steep side of the boulder from right to left, finishing up Flying Colours. Impressive!
Flying Colours
5+
(V2)
2
0
0
The left arete of the north face has a high and reachy finish.
Striding Edge
5+
(V2)
2
4
0
Excellent climbing up a steep slab with a tricky start.
Swirral Edge
6b+
(V4)
1
0
0
The shortest arete on the boulder is a welcome relief from the highball problems here.
Puff Pastry
Below Tib's Tent this boulder has plenty of problems, none of which are particularly good and all of which need a good clean.
Flakey Pastry
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
A mantel problem, desperate in its current gritty state.
1
