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Unnamed Problem 6c Caley Roadside 07.11.2010
V4/5 seems right to me - the start of the traverse felt trivial, the end added one hardish move to the stand-up. To me, ...
Slopey Traverse 7b+ Almscliff 03.08.2010
cheers roo' - your method's also had some attention. Although I use a small intermediate crimp to set my feet for the ...
Slopey Traverse 7b+ Almscliff 28.07.2010
Cheers, that's what I had been trying but it was very low percentage, even in isolation - no matter where I smeared my ...
Slopey Traverse 7b+ Almscliff 28.07.2010
Anyone have beta for the finish of this. I have a sequence for getting to the low LH undercut but after that the ...
Chariots of Fire Eliminate 7b+ Ilkley 27.06.2010
Powerful and very sequency with a nasty bunched finish that spat me off repeatedly (despite being shared with the f6c ...
Top Cat Traverse 7b+ 7b+ Almscliff 25.02.2010
I found the finish as hard, if not harder, than the supposed crux. Keeping low all the way to the corner crack is ...
Armageddon 7a+ Baildon Bank 17.08.2009
Both, I think. Personally, I started as in the photos: leaning out from the starting jugs on the left and getting a ...
Unnamed Problem 7a 7a Almscliff 06.08.2009
I found the low eliminate pretty tricky. I spent a lot of sessions falling off the move from the mono (my legs just ...
Unnamed Problem 7a 7a Almscliff 04.08.2009
Finally managed what I think is UTG's "authentic" eliminate version of this: avoiding the high pocket, using the ...
Unnamed Problem 7a Almscliff 27.07.2009
I think the f7a/V6 is an eliminate from the old YGB guide. As I recall for that tick you had to hang BOTH the poor ...
Parker 7a+ Shipley Glen 18.07.2009
Stand up felt about 7a to me: horribly bunched slaps really aren't my bag! Anyone got beta for the sit-down? I ...
Unnamed Problem 7b+ Brimham 14.07.2009
Nice problem - very sustained and easily dropable at the very end. Harder but much nicer moves than the link from the ...
Unnamed Problem 7b Brimham 10.07.2009
Nasty moves between nasty holds - my punishment for not being strong enough for Ian's Traverse!
The Long Haul 7b Brimham 08.07.2009
I agree that is far better finished up the left arete: it's less arbitary and much more satisfying. Even with a long ...
Pinky Traverse 7b Brimham 30.06.2009
Sustained and unforgiving: every sloper had to be caught exactly right, otherwise I had no power left for that ...
Unnamed Problem 7b Brimham 22.06.2009
I was recently shown a nice semi-eliminate here; I'm not sure if it's this problem but it's well worth doing. From the ...
The Scone 7a Caley Crag 01.06.2009
Pleasant slab moves and a nice, burly slopey-lip traverse, linked by strange dropdown sequence that makes the whole ...
Unnamed Problem 7a+ Almscliff 28.05.2009
Took UTG's recommendation and did it from the undercut sitstart. The additional moves aren't hard, but do make the ...
Fieldside Traverse 7b 7b+ Almscliff 28.05.2009
Did this via a tough drop-down to match on the low sloper. It felt a bit hard and tenuous compared to the other 7b's ...
Unnamed Problem 7a+ Almscliff 21.05.2009
Cheers: it's good climbing and fitted the bill perfectly: involving moves, quick-drying rock and satisfyingly small ...
Unnamed Problem 7a+ Almscliff 20.05.2009
Good climbing: sustained and unforgiving. The best arse-dragging-traverse-eliminate-linkup I've done for ages! Seems ...
Slapstick Arete 7a+ Caley Crag 17.04.2009
I tried your sequence and couldn't imagine having the strength to do it! Once I have my LH in the pocket I just bump ...
Slapstick Arete 7a+ Caley Crag 16.04.2009
The sitter makes the problem feel more complete, but I'm not sure that it adds a whole grades worth of difficulty ...
Unnamed Problem 6b Brimham Outlying 14.04.2009
Bit of a dwarf's revenge this one: the crux on those little crimps felt very nasty and cramped indeed. Good fun.
Crimpy Roof 7b 7b Brimham Outlying 14.04.2009
Really good problem. The laying-down start feels fun rather than contrived and the tiny intermediate crimps give ...
Unnamed Problem 6c Caley Roadside 31.03.2009
A quality problem that I hadn't noticed before: so good I did it twice to make up for my previous neglect!
The Grouch 7b Brimham 29.03.2009
A superb problem that flows very nicely - more sequency and less brutal than its steep, slopey appearance suggests ...
Underhand 7b+ Almscliff 13.03.2009
At last.... 2-3 years of failure and I climb it third go after trying a tiny variant in my footwork. I. Have. Wasted. ...
Two Squirrels 7b+ Caley Crag 13.03.2009
Fantastic problem: funky moves on slopey holds that almost give sideways shuffling a good name! Pumpy, but the ...
The Long Haul 7b Brimham 30.07.2008
Cheers for the tips - it looks like a session of concerted pressing and shuffling is in order.
The Long Haul 7b Brimham 30.07.2008
I don't suppose you have any cunning beta for going past the corner? I could do with a good long project at Brimham ...
DIA Sit Start 7a+ Earl Crag 31.05.2008
Despite having the same grade the sitter felt appreciably more difficult: the burly start making the already tenuous ...
Unnamed Problem 6a 6a Earl Crag 08.05.2008
A really good problem that I just had never noticed before. Nice moves at a spicey height - one of those problems ...
Desert Island Arete 7a Earl Crag 08.05.2008
Proper classic: a nice contrast of powerful then tenuous. The "traditional" V7/ft7a+ felt about right - the ft6c+ of ...
By Hook or by Crook 7a Hunter's Stones 28.03.2008
Good problem: very fingery... almost nastily so. Having felt the "X" hold of the adjacent lines I am in awe of Mr ...
Mnemonic 6c Hunter's Stones 28.03.2008
Nice - quite tenuous and tactile. Topping-out felt quite hairy on a damp lonesome day...
Wavelength 7a Hunter's Stones 28.03.2008
Superb problem - sustained and burly. The cross-through to the pocket and move up to the break look unlikely for the ...
Resonance 6b Hunter's Stones 28.03.2008
Good and tenuous if done locking off on a LH slopey crimp/sidepull. Possibly a little soft for the grade if done using ...
The Titfield Thunderbolt 7b Brimham 13.02.2008
Cheers Jon - point taken re the first ascentionist's reach, now all I need is his strength! I haven't actually done ...
The Titfield Thunderbolt 7b Brimham 13.02.2008
Is there a set start for this? I can reach the best bit of the flake from the ground which feels like cheating... but ...
Unnamed Problem 6c 6c Ilkley 13.02.2008
good problem - climbs far better than it looks. Sustained with quite testing crimpy moves right at the end.
South Cave Traverse 7a+ 7a+ Almscliff 10.02.2008
Very sustained with decent enough handholds but near nothing for feet - a real battle at the end even with an ...
Unnamed Problem 7b Almscliff 10.02.2008
A really satisfying problem. For me the crux was having enough faith in the crack to justify the potential foot ...
Unnamed Problem 7a 7a Almscliff 10.02.2008
felt softish 7a/v6 crossing through from the two low slopey pockets to the high sharp pocket.
Stipule 7c Slipstones 31.01.2008
The less eliminate version of this climbs nicely. A butch move from the undercut to get LH in base of sidepull, then ...
Unnamed Problem 7a 7a Widdop 26.09.2007
Finally got around to doing this with a static pull-on: harder with long-legs to accommodate than the "bounce" start ...
Fight On Black 7b 7b Widdop 26.09.2007
Agree with V7/8 for lanky buggers (at least those who like crimps). The hardest thing was leaning out enough to see a ...
Safner's Arete 6b 6b+ Guisecliff 13.09.2007
Sorry nigel / paul if my comments appeared churlish - I enjoyed the problem and am very grateful for your efforts. The ...
Safner's Arete 6b 6b+ Guisecliff 06.09.2007
Some lovely balancy, tenuous, and technical arete moves... combined with dirty, brittle rock. Probably worth ...
Unnamed Problem 7a 7a Ilkley 22.08.2007
if done in the same manner as the V5 eliminate in the YGB guide (undercuts, RH pocket, LH sidepull, jug) this is nails ...
Wall of Horrors Traverse 6c+ 7a Almscliff 20.08.2007
This feels hard for V6 let alone V5, at least by my method. Semi-mantelling that little pocket to get the chip below ...
Flapjack Traverse 7a+ 7a+ Caley Crag 21.05.2007
Felt better started around the left-hand corner (as in the YGB guide) - adds some quite nice moves to get around the ...
Cleopatra 7a 7a Bridestones 30.04.2007
Such a great problem: a fingery start (that was quite hard to fathom) with a lovely high finish. One of those problems ...
Patta's Arete 7a 7a Almscliff 30.04.2007
good problem... fingery with a surprising amount of beef needing to be applied to move between crimps only about 6" ...
Unnamed Problem 6b 6b Almscliff 13.04.2007
feels more like V4 to me (although a bit soft when you have it wired) - the first half is a path but the incredibly ...
First Arete 7b Ilkley 29.03.2007
How do people finish this? Is it a just a really big throw with the RH from the two crimps on the arete (smearing RF up ...
Slapstick Arete 7a+ Caley Crag 01.01.2007
Thank's Tom - I've been seiging this for a while and getting it is a bit of an unexpected winter highlight (it was a ...
SuckerPunch 7a+ 7a+ Guisecliff 01.01.2007
tis' fully deserved: it's a briliant problem. Anyone with the opportunity to do it should seize it - slow drying rock ...
Slapstick Arete 7a+ Caley Crag 27.12.2006
Satisfying problem - powerful and fairly technical, keeps pretty dry too (considering its location). For me it went ...
Steven Seagal 6c+ Ilkley 18.12.2006
Good fun: a decent problem despite the contrived start. A nice cross-through for the RH from the lip-hold to one ...
Chips Today 5+ 6a Ilkley 18.12.2006
Satisfying and sweet moves, felt V3ish if done as an independent line from Blue Cocks (LH undercut, RH tiny crimp, up ...
Unnamed Problem 5+ 5+ Ilkley 14.08.2006
A fantastic little problem (at least deserves a name!) with a lovely tensiony cross-through to the lip jugs (with LH on ...
Blue Cock Wall 6a 5+ Ilkley 14.08.2006
Another one that felt tricky for the grade but very good too (just make sure your fingers are warmed up).
Ilkley Bar Kid 6b+ 6b+ Ilkley 14.08.2006
Lovely fingery cross through move; a cool problem and well worth the trip. Probably a bit stiff for V4, but I guess ...
The Gimp 7a+ Earl Crag 07.08.2006
I slapped from the two poor holds in the middle of the wall to a good, high part of the arete (at about 2 o'clock to ...
SuckerPunch 7a+ 7a+ Guisecliff 31.07.2006
Absolutely superb. The swing can be minimised and held fairly comfortably (which feels fantastic!) but there's another ...
Rat Au Vin 6a+ 6a Earl Crag 24.07.2006
lovely stuff... pleasantly thrilling in sweaty conditions.
Trick Arete 6b 6b Earl Crag 17.07.2006
V4 seemed fair for this starting with both hands on the arete and going to the high, crozzley crimp to the LHS (the one ...
Hanging Groove 6c 6c Earl Crag 17.07.2006
Satisfying but really quite nasty. The method shown on the video didn't work for me (long legs - too cramped for the ...
Unnamed Problem 6a 6a Earl Crag 17.07.2006
Very good - harder and more tenuous than its slabby appearance suggests.
Left, Right, Left 6b Ilkley 10.07.2006
Really nice moves.... well worth walking through neck-deep vegetation for. V2/V3 seems fair - certainly a lot easier ...
SuckerPunch 7a+ 7a+ Guisecliff 13.06.2006
Cheers, I'll give it a go next visit - I think I was releasing the toe-hook with my LH still low down on the arete. ...
SuckerPunch 7a+ 7a+ Guisecliff 12.06.2006
Is there any tip/trick to mitigate the enormous barn-door that happens after you gain the arete with the RH and have to ...
Apples 6a+ Guisecliff 12.06.2006
Very good - seemed to require quite a bit of strength and technique for the grade (though maybe I was thinking too much ...
Mop Top Arete Right 5+ 5+ Guisecliff 12.06.2006
nice problem - quite fingery and balancey
Mop Top Arete Left 5+ 5 Guisecliff 12.06.2006
quite a powerful high step on move - harder than the RHS?
Unnamed Problem 6a 6a+ Guisecliff 12.06.2006
A good problem with a nice powerful move to gain and use that lovely bulging pinch.
Pinky 7a+ 7a+ Brimham 09.06.2006
A long-term personal project finally dispatched on a sweaty summer's day, after falling from the final moves on ...
Unnamed Problem 6a 6a Brimham 09.06.2006
quite nice moves, in spite of the crumbly rock. Just needs a confident approach - wilingness to slap'n'paste above an ...
Unnamed Problem 6c+ Brimham 09.06.2006
I didn't use the pebble either: pulled on with slopey crimps: dipped my LH down to the low undercut, and hoicked my RF ...
Unnamed Problem 7a 7a Brimham 09.06.2006
managed to match the sloper but only via a horrendous footlock that has left me limping... a casualty of my strange ...
Whisky Galore 7a 7a Brimham 19.04.2006
Superb and unusual stuff - required strong thumbs and a stoical attittude to pelvic dislocation (with my 6'3" ...
Unnamed Problem 6c 6c Brimham 19.04.2006
A bit of an unsung gem? Felt desperate until I forced myself to totally commit to the big rockover - with a funky move ...
Umpleby's Arete 4+ Widdop 27.02.2006
Abso-bloody-lutely terrifying crux move, not made any easier by some sandyness. Felt hard for V0, though that might ...
Not My Stile 7a Caley Roadside 13.02.2006
Lovely moves: faith and finesse rather than pulling hard. That said, I am in no hurry to find out whether the finish ...
Davies' Ramp 6c 6c Slipstones 23.01.2006
Interesting climbing - high, nervy moves using a disconcertingly crap crimp and a slopey layaway (a probably duff ...
Sulky Little Boys 7a+ 7a+ Slipstones 23.01.2006
Classic grit - feels great when it goes, even though it's essentially a hideously cramped rockover from finger ...
Dolphin Belly Slap 7a 7a Almscliff 18.01.2006
most people seem to get stood up on the lip and then venture around the corner for a triumphant chimneying descent; ...
Virgin Traverse 6c 6c Almscliff 03.01.2006
An appropriately arduous "banish-the-mince-pies" festive project. Personally found it harder than the Crucifix ...
Sloper Patrol 6c+ 6c+ Almscliff 14.12.2005
Have you tried the Virgin Traverse next door? That's like two Sloper Patrols nailed together and gets V4!
Red Baron 7a+ 7a+ Shipley Glen 12.12.2005
Felt a pretty solid V7 - and not all over once you match the arete (at least not with my unwieldy legs - horribly ...
Manson's Must 6a 6a Shipley Glen 12.12.2005
cramped a cheval style stuff - the pointy boulder certainly adds impetus to hanging that sloper!
The Anchor 7a+ 7a+ Brimham 23.11.2005
but just think of the benefits of shortness for arse-dragging traverses, bunched-up rock-overs... and VAT-free ...
Steve's Wall 7a+ 7a+ Almscliff 21.11.2005
Good problem with some nice dynamic moves. The method on the video is very powerful though - personally found it ...
Sloper Patrol 6c+ 6c+ Almscliff 21.11.2005
definitey better value going downhill - managed to fall off the final rock-over/mantel twice before nailing it (the ...
Acme Wall 6a 6a Brimham 21.11.2005
superb and scary. I couldn't get my foot in the pocket for the move from the crystals and had to use the edge below ...
No Joke 6c+ 6c Brimham 21.11.2005
agree that this is a hard one to grade - gone from impossible to fairly trivial with a small improvement in personal ...
The Anchor 7a+ 7a+ Brimham 21.11.2005
felt a little soft for grade with feet on the back ledge for the pop to the top. Top out was "interesting" (where did ...
Unnamed Problem 6c+ Caley Crag 29.09.2005
No help I'm afraid, but can only agree; V5's not usually a problem but I can't get near this. Been trying to move LH ...
Dreamland 7a+ 7a+ Almscliff 17.09.2005
felt a damn sight easier in the aftermath of heavy rain...nice clean holds...mmmmmm
Demon Wall Roof 7a+ 7a+ Almscliff 12.09.2005
I had to use a tall man's sequence: RF toe hooking the back pocket and matching the good crimp. When I tried to use ...
Pebble Wall Variation 7b Almscliff 12.09.2005
This felt about V5/6ish to me. Though I'm tall and was having a pretty "strong" day. Both hands undercutting the ...
Green Wall 6c+ 6c+ Caley Crag 23.08.2005
i used the mono only momentarily so sort my balance before extracating it and reaching through with the left for the ...
Green Wall 6c+ 6c+ Caley Crag 23.08.2005
sorry if I seemed a "bit holier than thou": just elaborating on explaining my grade-vote. Cheers for bringing it to ...
Green Wall 6c+ 6c+ Caley Crag 22.08.2005
felt hard V5 direct via the very thin brushed crimps - I didn't use the big hold towards the LHS groove as on the video ...
Unnamed Problem 5+ 5+ Caley Crag 22.08.2005
Like a junior Pine Tree Arete with slopey thugginess usual at the grade. Worth a star in my book.
Out of Sight 7a Bridestones 15.08.2005
is this an arete problem where you can't use the arete? The YGB guide doesn't mention it being an eliminate but using ...
Face Ache 6a+ 5+ Bridestones 15.08.2005
felt around V2 without the flatty - nice, flowing, balancy stuff
Unnamed Healaugh 08.08.2005
A nice place for a sunny days soloing. Though beware of the frequently snappy and sandy rock - mobile phone coverage ...
Hovis Superdirect 6c+ 6c+ Crookrise 08.08.2005
fantastic problem - far better than it looks. It's amazing how much you can layaway from that slopey pocket - brute ...
Fascinationby 6a+ 6a Slipstones 02.08.2005
really good stuff - a butch start to gain the groove which has better holds than first appears and climbs nicely. Up ...
Wisecrack 6c Slipstones 02.08.2005
do you have to start this matching the face-height sloper directly below the crack? As when the LH is started on the ...
Unnamed Problem 6b 6a Brimham 25.07.2005
climbs far better than its appearance suggests: sweet moves and a "character-building" groin grinding top-out
Four Square 5+ Widdop 27.06.2005
bonus prize to Squeek for decoding my fiendishly complex statement ;-). More important than semantics though: do you ...
The Lost World 7a 6c Brimham 31.05.2005
I got both my left and right hands on crimps at the lip before going for the hole with my right and holding the swing - ...
The Lost World 7a 6c Brimham 31.05.2005
Good, slightly insecure, body-tensiony moves leading to a burly cut-loose finale. Really nice: far less scratty and ...
Sowden HVS 5a Slipstones 09.05.2005
Probably the most enjoyable microroute I've ever done - lovely climbing. Goods holds keep on coming (the flake's ...
Four Square 5+ Widdop 09.05.2005
Enough elimates to keep you going for ages. The LHS only (be strict!), from a sitter, feels around V5 with a ...
Unnamed Problem 7a+ 6c Brimham 06.05.2005
Looks like those sessions on the bouldering roof at the Sunderland Wall have worked then - Hooray! (not that it's ...
Unnamed Problem 6a+ 6a+ Brimham 05.05.2005
Started at the break under the roof. The body-tensiony moves to catch the lip and cross-through to the jug felt ...
Unnamed Problem 7a+ 6c Brimham 05.05.2005
Lovely moves - strenuous, but V6? surely not (unless I've improved a lot recently). It's no way as hard or sustained as ...
Unnamed Problem 6b+ 6c Brimham 05.05.2005
a good, slightly dynamic, rainy day problem... if it's the one I did? Started just under the block, LH in crack & ...
Holdless 7a+ Bridestones 25.04.2005
felt around V4/5 - although I could reach the RH sidepull okay and pop for the top from decentish footholds and a good ...
A Mouthful of Crystals 6c 6c Bridestones 25.04.2005
felt around V5 on a warm, sweaty day - you just have to believe in the holds!
Australia Roof 6b 6b Earl Crag 25.04.2005
a good, burly problem - nice combo of footlocks and dynamism
Unnamed Problem 6b 6b Widdop 11.04.2005
nice problem - slightly tenuous start and a burly finish that felt strangely commiting given its height!
Unnamed Problem 7a 7a Widdop 11.04.2005
A bounce start for the LH crimp felt hard V5 (i'm incapable of V7, especially with bleeding finger-tips at the end of a ...
Four Square Left 6b+ 6b+ Widdop 11.04.2005
powerful and insecure feeling topout (if you do it like me anyway - cross though the LH onto the arete) - great stuff. ...
Happy Days 7a 6c+ Brimham 04.04.2005
argggggrhhh my shoulder ligaments! Going for the pocket gaston really quickly and positively as soon as the heel-hook ...
Black Dog Arete 6c 6c Brimham 04.04.2005
burly - not the best choice of problem with font'd elbows and shoulders! Having the left leg in a quasi-knee bar ...
Teaspoon Variation 6a+ 6a+ Almscliff 21.03.2005
strenuous and frankly unpleasant - have to be feeling strong to get the left foot on .
Syrett's Roof 6c+ 6c+ Almscliff 21.03.2005
an absolutely fantastic problem (and possibly not the best choice for a hot sweaty day - but hey... I had mats). You ...
Dolphin Belly Slap 7a 7a Almscliff 21.03.2005
burly - strikes me as decent value for V6 (cf stuff like Pair in a Cubicle etc). Anyone arguing for V5 has done it far ...
Flying Arete 6b Almscliff 21.03.2005
nice climbing, easier I suspect for the tall. The top-out's a gripper (especially on your own with a mis-placed mat!) ...
Pair in a Cubicle 7a 7a Brimham 15.03.2005
This brought a right old grin to my face. Eventually managed in fairly "clean" style: just had to really commit to ...
Unnamed Shipley Glen 08.03.2005
agree with Dan - once you have a few problems wired Shipley provides a good day out (especially for low-grade types ...
Vim 6a 6a Shipley Glen 07.03.2005
fantastic climbing that seemed pretty stiff for the grade (gave me more trouble than Manson's Wall - though that could ...
Timeless Divide 5+ Slipstones 31.01.2005
A nice problem - feels all the sweeter because the LHS handholds look so bloody inadequate (a tiny crimp and the pinchy ...
Strictly Personal 6b 6a+ Slipstones 31.01.2005
brilliant moves, both strenuous and technical. Hard to grade as it feels impossible until you get the sequence, and ...
Steptoe 6b Slipstones 31.01.2005
No holds above the pair of poor crimps - just crimp like a beast whilst udging feet until the top can be gained. Just ...
Rock On Left-Hand 6a+ 6a Slipstones 31.01.2005
Powerful reachy move to gain pocket, less technical than rock-on but far more brutal (long arms and short legs would be ...
Rock On 5+ 5+ Slipstones 31.01.2005
I found this trickier than the LH variation - probably as I'm tall (6'3"). A superb courage-of-convictions move - ...
Anniversary Arete 6b 6b Brimham 24.01.2005
nice problem - quite sustained technicalities. V4 seems a mite generous - though I had just been to Kyloe 'in' where ...
Unnamed Problem 6b Brimham 10.01.2005
I've always found this tricky for the grade (though may a result of long legs and a poor sequence). Extracating my ...
Manson's Wall 6c+ 6c Shipley Glen 06.01.2005
fantastic stuff, surprised to find that it was not all over after gaining the high crimpy LH "ear". The final dynamic ...
Smarter 6b 6b Bridestones 20.12.2004
felt V4 done via the ramp from undercuts and a pebble. One of those knacky problems that initially feels very hard for ...
Small And Smart 6b 6c Bridestones 20.12.2004
this felt about V5 using the pocket, sloper and pebbles (no ramp) - awkward, blind smearing off of the pebble. Top ...
Pine Tree Arete 6c+ 6c+ Caley Crag 06.12.2004
sustained stuff with the poorest holds saved for near the end, exited via the scoop to the left of the arete. One of ...
The Pinch 6c Caley Crag 06.12.2004
the dynamic start from low holds to the left makes it feel more "complete" and doesn't really add any difficulty (the ...