Widdop reservoir sits in a remote and beautiful area of moorland between Hebden Bridge and Burnley. Overlooking the reservoir on all sides there are numerous small crags and boulders, which offer some excellent climbing and bouldering.
The most well known of the bouldering areas is the Lakeside Boulders This is the collection of large boulders beside the south shore of the reservoir next to the plantation. The climbing tends to be technical and sometimes fingery, with lots of classic wall and arete problems. The landings are invariably good, although often waterlogged, especially in winter. If there is are strong westerly wind these boulders will be one of the few sheltered crags in the area, but on warm summer evenings the midges can be ferocious.
The Edge
The main edge is mostly quite high but there are a few problems on the smaller buttresses.
Dam Boulder
A little boulder beside the path at the end of the dam.
?
(V?)
0
0
Start at a flake and go straight up a small groove above.
6c
(V5)
0
0
Traverse right along the lip to finish up a small nose.
The Lakeside Boulders
The seven large boulders extending up the hill below Purgatory Buttress have some fantastic climbing. They are described from the boulder lowest down the hill, closest to the reservoir, upwards.
Topo
Lowest Boulder
The small boulder closest to the reservoir isn't the best, but the overhanging nose on the front face is entertaining.
4
(V0)
0
0
The wide crack on the front face. Try it without using the left wall.
5
(V1)
1
3
1
Unusual moves up the overhanging nose.
5+
(V2)
2
1
0
The centre of the wall has nice climbing, with a mantel start and sloping top.
5
(V1)
2
0
The arete.
4
(V0)
1
3
1
The centre of the uphill wall of the block on small holds, usually with a wet landing!
Topo
Fight On Black
This big boulder has several classic problems.
7a+
(V7)
5
1
The shallow groove in the centre of the wall on small crimps. Reachy to start.
The Runnel
7a+
(V7)
3
0
Baffling moves gain the runnel to the right of the arete.
7b
(V8)
2
7
0
Climb the wall left of a crack to mantel onto the shelf.
The Shelf
5+
(V2)
2
9
3
Start up the crack then use poor slopers to gain the ledge. Excellent.
The Traverse
6b
(V4)
1
0
Start up The Shelf then traverse left on slopers to join The Runnel. Good.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The easy, vague arete to the right of the Shelf.
Three Pebbles and a Funeral
?
(V?)
0
0
The centre of the big, blank wall. Now defunct since the loss of a pebble.
6b
(V4)
2
10
2
The line of slopey holds just left of a shallow scoop.
6a+
(V3)
0
1
Reachy moves up the wall beside the left arete.
3
(V0-)
1
0
0
The left arete.
Topo
Pickpocket's Slab
The third boulder has more superb climbing. The big steep slab is particularly good.
3
(V0-)
0
0
From the big hole, climb the crack up left to a slopey finish.
6a
(V3)
1
3
2
Undercut the hole and go straight up. Very height dependent.
6a+
(V3)
0
0
Start up the arete then make an excellent move left to join the finish of Pool Traverse.
The Big Top
5+
(V2)
0
0
Hand traverse the top of the big slab from left to right, finishing at the top of the boulder.
Pickpocket's Wall
6a+
(V3)
1
3
3
The steep slab just left of the crack, escaping left at the top.
3
(V0-)
1
0
0
The arete on its easier right-hand side.
3
(V0-)
0
0
The big slab in the gully has several easy lines.
Topo
Four Square
Another big block with another classic arete problem.
4
(V0)
4
0
Climb the wall from the obvious big sloper.
Kasabian
7a+
(V7)
1
7
1
Traverse the whole length of the sloping break, reaching the top before the Four Square arete.
Four Square Left
6b
(V4)
2
2
The left-hand side of the arete with a tricky move at the top. Superb.
Take That
7b
(V8)
6
0
The wall to the left of the eliminate beside the arete. Using two pebbles, dyno for the top.
4
(V0)
1
1
0
The pleasant arete.
3
(V0-)
1
0
The easy blunt arete starting by a slot.
6c
(V5)
0
0
The wall to the right of the blunt arete. Start at a hole, finish rightwards.
4
(V0)
0
0
The groove in the centre of the back face of the boulder.
5+
(V2)
1
2
1
The blunt rib right of the groove.
Topo
Red Edge
There are only a few problems on this block but they're superb.
Topo
Umpleby's Arete
The next big boulder up the hillside has yet another classic arete.
7a
(V6)
5
0
0
The pebbly slab left of the wide crack.
Umpleby's Arete
4+
(V0)
3
2
1
The big arete with a scary rockover high up.
The Offwidth
3
(V0-)
0
0
The wide crack left of the arete is entertaining!
Matt's Rib
6c
(V5)
1
0
The arete of the offwidth crack, left of Umpleby's. High and scary.
The Big Crack
3
(V0-)
0
0
The wide crack right of the arete.
The North Face
5
(V1)
2
0
The slab right of the crack.
3
(V0-)
1
1
0
The shorter slab further right.
?
(V?)
0
0
On the short steep wall facing the plantation, sit start in the slot, slap left to the arete and up.
?
(V?)
3
0
Start in the slot again but slap up right to the lip.
Topo
The Seventh Boulder
The last boulder. More excellent climbing.
Seventh Wave
6c+
(V5)
4
9
2
The rounded arete has a tricky crux after which the holds disappear. Superb.
Seven Steps To Heaven
4
(V0)
0
0
A right-to-left traverse with feet on the obvious line of holds.
System Seven
6a
(V3)
1
1
The same traverse line but with hands on the line of holds.
Seventh Heaven
5+
(V2)
0
0
Climb the slab directly with a tricky rockover at the top.
Seven Deadly Sins
5+
(V2)
0
0
The slab further left.
Unnamed Boulder
This boulder lies close to the other lakeside boulders but has not been documented before. There are four nice arete problems (grades around 4-5) and a few more problems.
5+
(V2)
1
0
0
A sit-start leads to a tricky mantel.
Unnamed Boulder
This final area lies on top of the moor, above Purgatory Buttress.
Zorro The Gay Blade
6a
(V3)
1
0
0
The line at the left end of the boulder, from a sit start.
Going Mantel
6a
(V3)
1
0
0
